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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, Im splitting this afternoon and am going to do some OTS notches on a few nucs. I know I need 36 hr or younger larvae. Can that go all the way back to the egg, or does it need to be larvae with clear jelly on it? Please send a photo of a good candidate if you have one availible and handy. Thanks. Stressed. More than I should be Im sure. G:pinch:
 

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>Can that go all the way back to the egg, or does it need to be larvae with clear jelly on it?

When you make them queenless, they are NOT looking for an egg. They are looking for the right aged larvae. Which is, just hatched. The larva should be an imperfection on the surface of a small pool of clear liquid.
 

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OK, Im splitting this afternoon and am going to do some OTS notches on a few nucs. I know I need 36 hr or younger larvae. Can that go all the way back to the egg, or does it need to be larvae with clear jelly on it? Please send a photo of a good candidate if you have one availible and handy. Thanks. Stressed. More than I should be Im sure. G:pinch:
from my understanding you need 1 to 3 day old larvae. I would look on your frame for eggs and follow the eggs until you see the pattern for them turning into larva (that is what I do to track down the queen, and what I will be doing for OTS splits this weekend). The one thing I will do differently from the OTS splits is that I won't be pinching queens, just in case my splits have problems. I still might end up grafting some queens, but not sure if I will end up taking that on this time around.
 

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>Can that go all the way back to the egg, or does it need to be larvae with clear jelly on it?

When you make them queenless, they are NOT looking for an egg. They are looking for the right aged larvae. Which is, just hatched. The larva should be an imperfection on the surface of a small pool of clear liquid.
But if they have only eggs will they then work on them when they hatch or ignore the new larvae?
 

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>But if they have only eggs will they then work on them when they hatch or ignore the new larvae?

By the time the eggs have hatched they will have capped the queens they started from the just hatched larvae. They will have no interest in starting more queen cells, so they will ignore them, yes. The bees are in a race with time. They need a laying queen yesterday and the eggs will not get them a queen sooner than the just hatched larvae.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks yall. Thanks to you both. I just learned that a package I installed on 4-9 is now queenless and all the broodcomb is filled with honey and pollen. could I just incorporate the bees and honey frames equally among my splits and take just the brood frames and bees from my mother hives?
 

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>could I just incorporate the bees and honey frames equally among my splits and take just the brood frames and bees from my mother hives?

Sure. Since you have bees on all of them I would try to get some bees from three different hives in the mix. Confusion is your friend when it comes to them not fighting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
>could I just incorporate the bees and honey frames equally among my splits and take just the brood frames and bees from my mother hives?

Sure. Since you have bees on all of them I would try to get some bees from three different hives in the mix. Confusion is your friend when it comes to them not fighting...
Thanks Michael. I utilized the honey and bees to help build the Nucs. I found when I went into my Mother hive there were already capped and nearly capped queen cells. Those frames are the ones I introduced to the nucs. Hopefully they will hatch out and be open mated successfully. I should be a few days ahead of the game now I suppose. Tommorrow I am splitting from another hive, a huge swarm I caught a month ago. May have to notch in that one. I will keep yall posted. Thanks for the great advice all.:thumbsup:
 

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Sounds like it is working well so far - congrats. I will be checking on my notched splits this Friday or so to see if I have capped queen cells.
 
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