You mentioned being a beginner, so I hope you won't mind if I add this: Smoke the bees thoroughly along one side of the box to get them out of the space between one of the outermost frames and the inside surface of the box. Then carefully slide that frame over towards the outside as far as possible w/o crushing the comb. Usually you can get it out OK, if you're patient and controlled. Once you have one frame out, prop it up against the side of the hive - or hang it in an empty box near where you're working. That should give you enough manouvering room the get the next one loose so you can remove and exmaine it. Once you've looked at both sides, slide that frame towards the edge and pull and examine the next one, and so on. The outermost frame will be just fine out of the hive during the inspection as it rarely has any temperature-sensitive brood in it.
When replacing the frames make sure to get them pushed together again as tightly as possible. Work slowly and carefully when first making contact between frames to avoid squashing bees, but after they are touching they can be pushed together with a little more force. Lastly, after returning the outermost frame, push all the frames together to leave bee space on both sides of the comb-mass, along the outer walls. Besides being good for the bees to move around and attend to both side of the frame, that bee space is your wiggle-room for the next time you pull frames.
I found I wasn't consolidatiing my combs as tightly as I should and once I got over that, things were easier. If you have Pierco plastic frames watch carefully that you don't have a bee caught in the groove along the upper portion.
Some people do run with one fewer frame in the supers to make extra-thick combs for honey. (Fatter combs yield more honey for the same work of uncapping, but make sure extra-fat combs will fit in your extractor.) I think you will find that bees will fill all the available space, so unless you are deliberately planning on having extra thick honey combs I would keep to the "normal" eight or ten frames that your boxes are designed for. This is especially important in the brood area where mis-formed comb engendered by too-much space will result in willy-nilly brood-combs that will break apart when inspecting. (You don't want to have poor little bee pupae wiggling around on your sneakers like I did this Spring!)
I find the tiny-but-forceful controlled pushes needed to shift well-filled frames along the frame rest force me to move slowly and deliberately, which is also safer for the bees.
Enj.