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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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Discussion Starter #1
FYI. I've added topics on my web site on "Advice for Beginners", "Enemies of Bees", "Moving bees", "Swarm Control", "Making Splits" and "Queen Spotting".

That is in addition to the many current topics.

[ April 10, 2006, 10:55 AM: Message edited by: Michael Bush ]
 

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Was just looking at your site. It will take alot of time to read all that info. But i will read it all. Am thinking of trying a foundationless nuc later on to see how it does. Also thinking about switching to small cell foundation to get rid of mites. Very good info. Thank's for sharing it.
 

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Good work Michael. It inspires me to work on mine. For what it's worth, I just added a link to your site on my resources page.

George-
 

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Michael B,
Good stuff. These new beeks are getting some plain, simple, expert advice and if they listen it can save them a lot of dissapointment and money.
 

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I am two weeks from my first package delivery
and I have my equipment all ready to go. Everything I ordered and assembled was as directed by MB's advice to me over the past several months. I have the 8 frame mediums, small cell wax foundation to start out, IPM bottom board, a large smoker, and all his other recommendations, even the italian hive tool from Brushy Mt. Thank you Michael for all your valuable advice.
BTW
Reading your Lazy Beekeeper page, I noted you recommend top entrances. So does this mean I can just block the bottom What about the inner cover? ??Explain options
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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Discussion Starter #13
>you recommend top entrances. So does this mean I can just block the bottom

Only if you provide an entrance somewhere else.

>What about the inner cover?

I have done many different things depending on what equipment I have on hand. If you take two shingle shims and prop up the inner cover and slide the outer cover forward you'll have a top entrance. I feel a bit safer if I put prop it up, screen the inner cover hole, add a box and then the lid because then the lid can't accidently get slid back (by a careless beekeeper) and trap the bees.
 

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What a great site!! Its so nice to have someone so willing to answer the same questions over and over. Means alot to us newbees!!

I am wondering how to get the bees from a vertical hive to a horizontal and when it would be best to do it.

Maybe make the long box and then just transfer the frames?? Is the order crucial?? And what time of year??

Thanx
diane
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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Discussion Starter #16
>Maybe make the long box and then just transfer the frames?

Just build the long box and put the frames in it in the same order they were.

> Is the order crucial??

Yes. If the brood spans more than one box, put the brood from the second box in with the brood from the first box so there are contiguous brood frames. The normal structure of a brood nest is honey and pollen on the outside edge, drones next and worker brood in the center. You want to try to keep it close to that.

>And what time of year??

Anytime from now until about October would probably work fine.
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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Discussion Starter #17
FYI I've added these topics:

Varroa treamtents (a simple mathematical model for comparing treatments with and without brood in the hive)

Requeening a Hot Hive

Learning

Glossary (of acronyms)
 
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