[honeybeekeeper]

I have 2 new bee packages (Hive #1 & Hive #2) I installed hive #1 april 24th and installed Hive #2 may 6th! They "both" have 2 deeps, they are still running with the SBB (Open), both with the entrance reducer on the bottom and im feeding with upside down jar feeders over top the inner masonite cover with an empty & top lid on both! My concern is that now since its been really warm lately if i should remove the front entrance reducers and do they need ventilation at the top & how??? They arent covering the whole front of the hive or anything, right now they are just all around the bottom board. Thats why i was concerned about the front entrance reducer! I do have several ventilation inner covers (for upper air flow) but like i mentioned earlier im using the masonite inner cover to feed with upside down mason jars and wondered how to get upper flow when its covered up top with a double jar feeders! Whats the best set up for air flow for my area for 2 hives, 2 new package bees on 2 deep hive bodies now???? Experienced advice would be appreciated, Thank you!!!

 

[SwedeBee1970]

With two deeps, I'd figure it's safe to remove the hive entrance reducer. Next thing would be predators, if any. Depends on your surroundings. Mine are skunk, possum, vole, and mouse protected. If you see them fanning at the entrance, this is climate control. It's funny what you can learn from observing them from a slight distance. Grab a lawn chair & a beer. The rest is easy.

 

[honeybeekeeper]

Well i dont drink but if you have that many predators you might want to secure your front entrance with 1/4" hardware wire going across the front! Thanks for your input!

 

[Mike S]

I would remove the entrance reducers first. Are you blocking the entire hole in the inner cover with your feed jar? I also shim all my telescoping covers in the back about 1/4" but if you have the inner cover blocked this wont help? You could make some 3/4 stock pieces to sit the jar on leaving it where air can come up, don't box it up solid. All you need to do is lay them on there, they don't need to attach, this might help a little until you quit feeding. I think you have seen the little feeders I built with vent holes and # 8 screen to feed and let the air pass thru too.

I would recommend you get a lawn chair and sit out there by them and help the girls fan with a newspaper

 

[honeybeekeeper]

Yeah i have double jar feeders on both and there is "NO" vent holes on the feeders at all, so when you place the jars in place there is no air what so ever! I seen how they was built and at that time it didnt matter but now i need them vented. If i drilled two 1/2" holes in the double jar feeder and then i would be able to raise my top cover, would that work BB fever (MikeS)??..

 

[ccar2000]

It sounds to me like your bees might just be having a traffic jam at the entrance reducer. When mine get overheated they cover the whole front of the hive and hang off the porch by a couple of inches. Are yours fanning the entrance?
You can remove the reducer as long as you have enough bees to defend the full opening. With two deep brood boxes it sound like you should have enough bees.
I tried ventilating my hive with 3/8" shims under the telescoping cover but the shims did not raise the top enough to provide any ventilation due to the lip around the cover. But, that would not work with the inner cover set up you are using. I ended up creating an upper entrance by putting three spacers inbetween the top brood box and the first honey super if you are ready for a super maybe this will work.
I have heard of beekeepers putting the feeders directly on top of the frames. If you can do that maybe you can eliminate using the inner cover to support the feeders?

 

[beedeetee]

I pretty much never use entrance reducers. When I need to, I use window screen or hardware cloth bent into a "V" and stuffed in the entrance leaving the size opening that they need. When they need more opening, I fold the screen back some or remove it.

 

[mike haney]

I pretty much never use entrance reducers. When I need to, I use window screen or hardware cloth bent into a "V" and stuffed in the entrance leaving the size opening that they need. When they need more opening, I fold the screen back some or remove it.

now thats a GREAT idea! is this something you thought of? this is one of those times you smack the side of your head and go DUH!

 

[peacekeeperapiaries]

I pretty much never use entrance reducers. When I need to, I use window screen or hardware cloth bent into a "V" and stuffed in the entrance leaving the size opening that they need. When they need more opening, I fold the screen back some or remove it.

I do the same thing on my splits ( 5 frame nucs), bend leftover pieces of #8 HW cloth (left from makin SBBs) into a v and stick it in the entrance, holds tight, more ventilation, and adjustable :thumbsup:

 

[beedeetee]

now thats a GREAT idea! is this something you thought of? this is one of those times you smack the side of your head and go DUH!

I'm pretty sure I wasn't the first to use use it. I don't remember how I found out about it, but I first started using it making nucs in the late summer to over winter. Robbing can be merciless and with the screen I could actually close up the opening for a while to try to get the robbers to stop and then bend it back open a little to let one bee out at at time.

I bought some window screen 15 years ago and am still using the same roll. The hardware cloth works a little better since is holds its shape better, but for temporary use either will work.

 

[honeybeekeeper]

Anyone have any photos of the hardware wire bent into a V and in place on their hive??? Can you use 1/4" wire or just #8 mesh (1/8") wire??? I figured a mouse wouldnt go through 1/4" wire but the bees would beable to and use the whole area instead of just a small portion! I have both wire available! what do you all think?

 

[beedeetee]

It depends on what you are trying to keep out. I don't worry about mice until fall. If I am trying to keep robbers out, I use window screen or #8 cloth. By the way, with window screen you can just roll up a piece and stuff it in the entrance leaving the size opening you want. Nothing fancy.

 

[honeybeekeeper]

I have window screen also if that works best! Then in the fall it will need to fixed for mice then! Isnt there anything to where you can just set it and not have to fool with it any more????...I understand the front entrance reducer for new package bees but now since they're 2 deep hive bodies tall they can have more space but i would like to have them mice free anytime so i dont have to do anything later! So 1/4" hardware wire bent into a V for the front entrance cant be used all season long???? Im looking for a permanent fix not something i will have to change again later on!

 

[DutchBee]

Anyone have any photos of the hardware wire bent into a V and in place on their hive??? Can you use 1/4" wire or just #8 mesh (1/8") wire??? I figured a mouse wouldnt go through 1/4" wire but the bees would beable to and use the whole area instead of just a small portion! I have both wire available! what do you all think?

bees will go right through the 1/4" screen. I use the next size smaller and bend it into a V and then open a few of the screen squares in the center. works great. Complete ventilation and they only need to defend the hole in the center.

 

[honeybeekeeper]

How many inches wide are you talking about???...Right now i just cut the opening to about 4 inches wide x 3/8" tall opening until i figure out a permanent solution!!! So far i have read ideas but nothing permanent to where it can go all year long!! I also fed them "AGAIN" while i was out there, they been eatting alot here lately as well! (3x as much)
Can a mouse fit through a 3/8" inch tall opening??? I have no idea..hahaha