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Hi All,
I'm a brand new member and haven't started a hive yet. But I've been doing a lot of research. I have a relatively small space (so, backyard beekeeper) in a wooded setting in central Wisconsin (zone 5b) (see my profile pic and attached - the hive will be placed near the bushes by the lake). I've decided on a 4' top bar hive, which I will build myself based on Philip Chandler's Youtube instructions. I also hope to start it by trapping a local feral swarm. We'll see. Clearly, I'll need guidance.

Cheers,

Matt

Plant Water Cloud Sky Natural landscape
 

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Hi All,
I'm a brand new member and haven't started a hive yet. But I've been doing a lot of research. I have a relatively small space (so, backyard beekeeper) in a wooded setting in central Wisconsin (zone 5b) (see my profile pic and attached - the hive will be placed near the bushes by the lake). I've decided on a 4' top bar hive, which I will build myself based on Philip Chandler's Youtube instructions. I also hope to start it by trapping a local feral swarm. We'll see. Clearly, I'll need guidance.

Cheers,

Matt

View attachment 73649
Hi Matt,
Your neighbor here.

My advice to you would be to NOT follow this plan - not the best for our area and you will only be disappointed - this regarding both - the TBH and the "feral bee swarms":

".............4' top bar hive, which I will build myself based on Philip Chandler's Youtube instructions. I also hope to start it by trapping a local feral swarm............."

Study this forum a bit:
Top Bar & Horizontal Hive Forum | Beesource Beekeeping Forums

Depending on where you are at - you may contact me for potential assistance.
I am in Dane Co.
 

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Warre, Lang, Topbar, and Layens. Completely Foundationless.
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I got one of them in a shed you can have. Next state to the west. I can promise you those hives are too shallow to work this far north. Nothing wrong with a deep frame horizontal hive.
I'm confused. Comb in a deep frame is shallower than comb my top bar hive since the frame chews up a lot of space. Chandler seems to use the 17in top bar to maintain compatibility with the British National hive. I built mine with a 19in top bar based on the Peace Corps KTBH plans. Chandler seems to have a 11in deep comb, and the PC is 12in. How could this be too shallow when a deep is not? :unsure:
 

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We are in Northern (zone 3) Wisconsin. We kept bees in a home made Long Hive using 30 medium frames for 4 years. I'm currently building another for the 2023 season, this time with Deep frames.

Insulation 'above' is definitely required imho. 2" foam board would be a good start.

BTW; Looks like a beautiful spot....Good Luck with your bees!
 

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Warre, Lang, Topbar, and Layens. Completely Foundationless.
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Hi All,
I'm a brand new member and haven't started a hive yet. But I've been doing a lot of research. I have a relatively small space (so, backyard beekeeper) in a wooded setting in central Wisconsin (zone 5b) (see my profile pic and attached - the hive will be placed near the bushes by the lake). I've decided on a 4' top bar hive, which I will build myself based on Philip Chandler's Youtube instructions. I also hope to start it by trapping a local feral swarm. We'll see. Clearly, I'll need guidance.

Cheers,

Matt
I don't see much wrong with your plan. Although I would suggest building a top bar hive with a 19in top bar, simply to maintain compatibility with langstroth equipment in a pinch. As well as it creates a deeper larger comb, which in theory should be better for wintering.

Top bar hives are great for learning how bees work. Very low input cost, fun to work. Have really enjoyed mine.

If you find that top bar hives simply won't work in your location. Give the Layens hive a whirl. You can build the frames to where the top bars touch just like a top bar hive. Some people like that. Some people don't. I personally prefer them touching.

As far as trapping bees. Go ahead. Sure you might just be catching swarms from some other beekeeper, but this is still way better than ordering bees from Georgia like that other beekeeper who lost that swarm did. Partly because you aren't spending $$$ for those almond bees that are worthless up north.

Look at it this way. Your cheap hive and free bees are still going to give you valuable experience. If they don't survive, you really have lost nothing. Later on when you feel more confident, buy northern stock.

I certainly wish more beekeepers would start like this. Me and most other backyard beekeepers started with a langstroth hive and a 3lb package of bees from Georgia asap in the spring. Of course, just like the book said....
 

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If you find that top bar hives simply won't work in your location. Give the Layens hive a whirl.
In my location (and certainly to the North of me) - ability to feed the bees from above if not mandatory then certainly very desirable.
Robbing yourself of this important feature (by using unmodified TBH/Layens design) is not a reasonable thing to do - regardless of what Chandler or Sharashkin are teaching.
 
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