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Discussion Starter #1
I am wanting to build a Long Hive that is primarily the width of 2 Lang style boxes (20 frame total) with the thought of building a 20 frame regular super or medium super to place on top of it. (Or be able to stack 2 -10 frame supers on top, side by side. I have seen a photo of a long hive that has what looks like supers stacked in the center of the long box and dont really care for that design.
I have researched the archives and don't really find any photos, but have read a lot of the threads pertaining to long hives. Has anyone built something like I am describing and if so, are photos available?
My thoughts are to build a brood box that is wide enough for 20 frames plus a divider board, which would make splitting a hive very easy with two entrances at each end of the box. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
 

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The idea is to find a strong base on which to park it and leave it. Since the whole long hive is to hold your brood, it will remain in place on the bottom.

Wayne
 

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I saw that very image on Dennis Murrell's website, so I decided to make my own.

I used the dimensions of 10-frame supers which I was still using then, I made it just long enough that two 10-frame supers fit atop it, just like in the photo. I made it an inch deeper than a normal deep super. At first I used an entrance slot I had cut into one end, but later I closed it with #8 hardware cloth and made entrances in supers that I added. It fits twenty-two deep frames, or top bars (though I initially intended to use it with some top bars, I've never gotten around to doing that, yet.).

One season I used it as a place to store honey-supers once they were full and capped. Wow, that sure was a nice season.

It stays where it is, unless I relocate the contents elsewhere and then it is only an empty box, even with empty frames it is too much for me to move around by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, Wayne.... This is exactly what I was looking for. My thoughts are to put 2 openings on each side of the box and modify the center of the box slightly where a divider section could be inserted (and removed) in the center of the box in lieu of a frame, to be able to split the hive as it grew large enough.

I have a 19 year old son and other help, so the weight is a non-issue, at least for a few years.

I am just a hobbyist, so I really don't care for migratory covers. Still working on a thought for a 2-piece telescoping top that is leak proof, but may have to just settle for one large one.
 

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Thanks for posting that, Dave. How deep is the rabbet for the slats? (The slatted rack link doesn't seem to be live.) I'll guess the slats are the width of a frame's bottom bar and spaced accordingly?

Wayne
 

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Hi Wayne

the slats are made of 1X material so they are 3/4" tall
the rabbets are the same
they serve as a good way to stiffen up the box but I'm not sure I need them other than that in my climate
to tell you the truth I don't remember how wide the slats are
whatever I thought was the "perfect" width at the time:)

the link points to another member's site
guess I'll remove it


Dave
 

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the slats are made of 1X material so they are 3/4" tall
the rabbets are the same
they serve as a good way to stiffen up the box but I'm not sure I need them other than that in my climate..
Great! You solved a concern I had which was how to stiffen a box that long.

Thanks.

Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for sharing that, Dave. Wow!! I have some great ideas now to get me started. I've given some thought to a migratory style cover that is covered by a light metal, sort of like roof flashing. Where the two sides meet, have the metal bend downward and make like a sharp J-Bend on one top piece that interlocks with the downward metal on the other top. The photos looked really great... Thanks again for sharing. There seems to be so much versatility to this type of hive design.
 

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Dave, thanks for posting that. My brother is going to build a long hive for this spring, so I sent him your website addy.
 

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Dave, you could take a 3" or so strip of wood whose length would be the width of the migratory cover. Nail/glude the strip on one of the covers top edge with enough sticking out that it cover the crack between were the two covers meet by mabye 3/4" to 1". Problem solved. No rain in the hive. Could also do the same thing by just using flashing.
 

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Dave:

Did you run into robbing trouble with the feeder and having all those entrances in it?
 

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bluegrass

look at the youtube video at the bottom of the page
it has a brief explanation of the feeder
there is no entrance straight from the entrance holes to the feeder, they have to go down into the hive first
to tell you the truth I hardly ever use it, I feed from an open bucket in the yard (easy)

BTW: my experience was that these hives make less honey than a lang, but they are a lot easier to work. I don't really work at selling honey so they still make plenty for me. the one I had going went queenless and fizzled at the end of last year so it's empty now but I'm going to start it back up in the spring

Dave
 

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Dave,

very interesting hive design - thanks for posting.

I am planning something similar but double-wide deep rather than triple-wide medium.

Can you explain a bit on what made this design easier to manage and also how much less honey than a lang and do you have any idea why?

I am considering running one of these with a double vertical queen excluder as a horizontal two-queen hive to boost the honey production.

thanks,

-fafrd
 
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