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if you like working to topbar hive, but want frames, have you considered long langs?
If I'm not mistaken the Lang frames have a bee space between them. I enjoy working the TBH because only a small portion of the nest is exposed at a time and the bees seem more relaxed. Plus, you don't need an inner cover. However, it would be nice to just buy the frames instead of making them.if you like working to topbar hive, but want frames, have you considered long langs?
Good suggestions...getting close to a solution but I'm still concerned about spacing. The side bars on Langs space the frames at 1 3/8". I've had good success following Michael Bush's advice on using 1 1/4" for brood and 1 1/2" for honey. I think this spacing will be critical in keeping combs straight since the frames will not contain foundation.You can make a long hive with multiple inner covers ...You could also just put side bars on your top bars.
You can shave them down to get them to 1 1/4".Good suggestions...getting close to a solution but I'm still concerned about spacing. The side bars on Langs space the frames at 1 3/8". I've had good success following Michael Bush's advice on using 1 1/4" for brood and 1 1/2" for honey. I think this spacing will be critical in keeping combs straight since the frames will not contain foundation.
Thanks for the ideas. Shaving down the side bars 1/16" on each side for the brood frames and adding a 1/8" spacer to the honey frames is possible, but this is starting to sound like a lot of work for a non-optimal solution. The gap between the top bars of the brood frames would now be 1/4", which is fine, but adding a 1/8" shim between the honey frames leaves either:You can shave them down to get them to 1 1/4".
How would these side bars be made? Are dowels sufficient?You could also just put side bars on your top bars, that would solve the problem and they won't attach the bottoms.
Out of A blue sky came up with this idea for cut out frames, although they didn't work too well for cut outs because of cutting triangle shaped comb, they might be useful with bee built combs.How would these side bars be made? Are dowels sufficient?
I just came across research from Gilles Denis (France). He uses semi-frames (partial side walls) in his Warre hives.I think dowels would be sufficient and easier than the next proposal. You could also cut a slit on the bottom of your topbars with a table saw and glue and nail 1/8 inch thick strips...
How much attachment do you get, and what are you cutting it with? I have a much different experience with mine. I think that you are going to end up making a simple bee hive, much harder to build and maintain. If you want the frames I would go with the long lang, buy or build frames and be done with it. If you like to tinker though, tinker away.I love my Tanzanian Top Bar Hive...except the comb attachments. I faithfully cut the comb from the sides at each inspection, but it just makes the bees angry. I thought a solution might be to convert the top bars to simple frames using 3/8 or 1/2 dowels on the sides. A narrower frame bottom could be attached to the dowels in the same manner to ensure proper spacing is maintained.
I prefer the full-width (1 1/4" and 1 1/2") top bars over standard deep frames because I don't want to cover the bars with a cloth due to the bee space. Anyone have experience with this type of frame? Any better ideas?