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Scorpionmain, I wonder if Engineer Ace would would recommend/specify the addition of a 5 gallon bucket 'o water to reduce what he sees as the ''tippiness' of your hive stand. :kn: :D




... or perhaps some lawn furniture, pallets & tree branches piled up nearby will improve the situation ... :p
lol
I am familiar with his engineering prowess.
 
Scorpionmain, I wonder if Engineer Ace would would recommend/specify the addition of a 5 gallon bucket 'o water to reduce what he sees as the ''tippiness' of your hive stand. :kn: :D




... or perhaps some lawn furniture, pallets & tree branches piled up nearby will improve the situation ... :p
Always got to be a smart A.
Scorpianmain, if you read through the thread on adding weight to a cover you will come to a post from Jim Lyon stating that a weight will make the hive tippy. And then he goes on to explain that he has witnessed hives tipping over during a wet season where the ground gets mushy and fails to support the hive. This is foundation failure not the fault of the weight. The weight can make it worse if the hive moves and it does in the wind. It will rock back and forth like an upside down pendulum because the base is weak. What you have in your hive stand is the same thing. If you add boxes to these hive and the bees fill them with honey the wind is going to rock these hives in unison when conditions are right and rip those bolts right out of the 2x4's (assuming the ratchet straps are securing the hive to the 2x4's).

The 2x4's should span the full width of the hive and be braced at the post and the post should be 3 ft min. in the ground. 4 feet would be much better. Using 4 post instead of two is another option that won't require going so deep.
 
Ace, how can you tell (from New York) how far Scorpionmain's (in Kentucky) hive stand posts are sunk into the ground?? :scratch: :s




... that must be some high-powered ESP juju that you are using ... :lpf:
 
Always got to be a smart A.
Scorpianmain, if you read through the thread on adding weight to a cover you will come to a post from Jim Lyon stating that a weight will make the hive tippy. And then he goes on to explain that he has witnessed hives tipping over during a wet season where the ground gets mushy and fails to support the hive. This is foundation failure not the fault of the weight. The weight can make it worse if the hive moves and it does in the wind. It will rock back and forth like an upside down pendulum because the base is weak. What you have in your hive stand is the same thing. If you add boxes to these hive and the bees fill them with honey the wind is going to rock these hives in unison when conditions are right and rip those bolts right out of the 2x4's (assuming the ratchet straps are securing the hive to the 2x4's).

The 2x4's should span the full width of the hive and be braced at the post and the post should be 3 ft min. in the ground. 4 feet would be much better. Using 4 post instead of two is another option that won't require going so deep.
4x4's and they are set 4 foot into the ground with concrete.
The hives are secured by looping around 10" lag bolts.
 
4x4's and they are set 4 foot into the ground with concrete.
The hives are secured by looping around 10" lag bolts.
Very good so the weak point is where the 2x4's are secured to the 4x4. Keep an eye on the hives when it is windy to see if they act like a pendulum. The 2x4's will twist like a torsion spring.
 
Very good so the weak point is where the 2x4's are secured to the 4x4. Keep an eye on the hives when it is windy to see if they act like a pendulum. The 2x4's will twist like a torsion spring.
All 4x4 construction.
and I added two more 4x4's to the horizontal base to give the bottom boards more purchase (not pictured).
For a total of 20" for the bottom boards to sit on.
 
Thanks
I think it will do.

As I was out there yesterday adding the additional base, I noticed an anthill had sprung up near a leg.
The ants were not able to make it past the grease under the pans & on the leg.
They were confined to the ground feeding on debris kicked out of the hives.
I was pretty happy to see that.
 
:scratch: :s

2x4s??? What 2x4s?

Did you look at the photo, Ace? ... Read the text??? The entire stand is constructed with 4x4s! :rolleyes:




... whats next? ... maybe the 4x4s are going snap now? :kn:
They looked like 2x4's to me and it really doesn't matter what they are it is not a strength issue it is a flexing issue.
 
Coming up next on this same channel, after a short break, will be Acebird quizzing Scorpionmain as to whether the bolts he used on that hive stand were 'Grade 8' bolts. :eek:

Don't miss the next exciting episode of "A Bird's Eye View of the World"! :p


:gh:
 
I would worry more about having your hives placed under a tree that drops cinder blocks instead of pine cones scorpionmain. Because that makes as much sense as the 'constructive criticism' I've seen in this thread. :)

Nice stand btw :thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #214 ·
I think it looks good. All you need in just a coat of grease under your grease cups so this will work. Yeah a little wider hive rest would be wise but you already addressed that.

Very good!:thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #215 ·
I would worry more about having your hives placed under a tree that drops cinder blocks instead of pine cones scorpionmain. Because that makes as much sense as the 'constructive criticism' I've seen in this thread. :)

Nice stand btw :thumbsup:
:lpf:
 
Coming up next on this same channel, after a short break, will be Acebird quizzing Scorpionmain as to whether the concrete he used on the posts of that hive stand was rated 5,000 psi or better. :eek:

Don't miss the next exciting episode of "A Bird's Eye View of the World"! :lpf:

:gh:
 
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