How far away is the hive that was moved? If it's miles away, I think you can bring it back.
Usually the wait that's connected to the issue of moving is when you are moving a hive only a short distance away from where it was standing. You need to have it at the second (temporary) location long enough for the foragers to "forget" the first location so that you can successfully re-locate it to the third location. But since you're presumably just bringing the moved hive back to the same place it was, I think that time isn't a factor, but rather the strength (increased number of bees in the weaker hive) and organizational focus of both hives that has (hopefully) changed.
Do you have robber screens in place? I've found they are very effective at stopping the robbing. When you bring the hive back, put one on the returnee right from the start. After it's a bit stronger, you can take it off and see if the robbing has been permanently stopped. (Most likely it has, but since moving hives is such a pain and disruptive to the bees, I'd want to go the extra mile to not re-ignite it.)
Michael Bush has some excellent advice about moving hives short distances successfully, without the traditional two miles/two weeks effort. One hive I moved using his methods worked perfectly. I had more trouble with my other hives later on but I think it must have been some (invisible to me) intervening factor - possibly colder weather - when I tried to repeat it. I still believe in his method, though.
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Usually the wait that's connected to the issue of moving is when you are moving a hive only a short distance away from where it was standing. You need to have it at the second (temporary) location long enough for the foragers to "forget" the first location so that you can successfully re-locate it to the third location. But since you're presumably just bringing the moved hive back to the same place it was, I think that time isn't a factor, but rather the strength (increased number of bees in the weaker hive) and organizational focus of both hives that has (hopefully) changed.
Do you have robber screens in place? I've found they are very effective at stopping the robbing. When you bring the hive back, put one on the returnee right from the start. After it's a bit stronger, you can take it off and see if the robbing has been permanently stopped. (Most likely it has, but since moving hives is such a pain and disruptive to the bees, I'd want to go the extra mile to not re-ignite it.)
Michael Bush has some excellent advice about moving hives short distances successfully, without the traditional two miles/two weeks effort. One hive I moved using his methods worked perfectly. I had more trouble with my other hives later on but I think it must have been some (invisible to me) intervening factor - possibly colder weather - when I tried to repeat it. I still believe in his method, though.
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