Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What I have now is a F550 truck, with a chassis that will fit a 12foot deck. Im going to lengthen the chassis to fit a 16 foot deck which makes it very efficient for the Ezyloader to work.

Haven'T decided where to mount the machine. If I mount it by the cab, it provides more protection for the Ezyloader, works the deck nicely and also allows for other use of the deck. Plus fuel mileage. If I mount the machine on the back, will provide a much better reach all around the back side of the truck. Also allowing to load a secondary truck if needed during the pull.

What do you think?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,899 Posts
It is not necissary to have legs with this system.
The model #200 lifts 440lbs (200KG) and roll is minimal.
Here are some pretty pictures to look at. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00284.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00281.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/Almonds2005013.jpg

1) Follow the instructions carefully on the lower frame suuports that are required.
If you rear-end someone or hit a solid object without the unit properly and safely mounted, it could slam forward and smash you like a pancake.

2) There are two upper mounting points where you drop two 5/8" bolts through the bed to a point below. Make sure whatever they bolt to is SOLID.
This keeps the frame from flexing and rocking forward or back which would throw things off level. Basiclly you want the unit to be attached SOLIDLY to the truck.
Remember, when you are 16 feet to the front or to the rear of the truck with the cradle lifting acouple hundred pounds or more, this is a LOT OF LEVERAGE on the frame of the unit. Mount it solidly.
On my truck, my bolts drop through the aluminum bed to 3' inverted steel channels that I gusutted to eliminate flex.

3) They have changed the winch from the model that I have so bear that in mind.
Mine came with a 2HP winch (1500 watts) of very high quality.
It runs around 120 amps.
BUT, every time you start the winch the in-rush bursts to over 300 amps momentarily!! :eek:
I mounted two HUGE schoolbus batteries in enclosures.
Do not use deep cycle batteries. This is the totally wrong application for deep cycle.
You need regular batteries of high capacity that can punch out big amps to reduce heat.
If I think of it I will try to get the numbers off of my batteries, bu I can tell you that they are twice the size of the batteris in my truck.
With these, I can fully load or unload without starting the truck.
Make sure to Isolate the boom batteries so that you can start your truck in the event of???? Also if you leave your lights on in your truck or somthing and accidently run the truck batteries down, it is nothing to just cross the Isolator with you jumper cables and give yourself a jump from the boom batteries.

4)Although they advertise the ezyloader lifting all kinds of stuff; don't do it.
The winch on mine has 10 times the power that the boom can manage, and you won't realize that until you bend something. Guess how I know about that? :cry:
My policy: lift beehives and supers only.

5)Develop a procedure for folding and unfurling the boom and go through the same motions every single time.
Reason? Twice, I have driven off with the boom unfurled, (it was in the locked position, I just didn't fold down.) and almost had a catastrophy.
The first time I heard branches snapping from trees hanging over the road, pulled over and realized I still had the boom vertical. Had I gone another 1000 feet I would have gone under a railroad tressle and wiped the whole thing out.

I'm sure I will think of more....
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
578 Posts
> It is not necissary to have legs with this system.

You have it mounted at front. I understood the question was about rear mounting. Also, you have the lighter-duty model.

Seems to me that a rear-mounted heavy-duty model might benefit from some legs, and if trailer mounted, that might be in order, too, not that this was suggested here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,220 Posts
Could an EasyLoader be used to lift a Pallet (500 lbs?).

Is there a US supplier of is it just Canada and Australia.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
A secondary truck could be loaded side to side. If you're loading a trailer then you would probably want it in back. If you're unloading at a dock you might prefer it in the front so you can run a jigger on your deck. Then again you might want to mount it on a smaller truck and just use it to load/unload other trucks.

How much does one of these units cost new?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,899 Posts
> It is not necissary to have legs with this system.

You have it mounted at front. I understood the question was about rear mounting. Also, you have the lighter-duty model.

Seems to me that a rear-mounted heavy-duty model might benefit from some legs, and if trailer mounted, that might be in order, too, not that this was suggested here.
I wasn't sassing you Allan; sorry!
Actually, there have been a few cases where I was way out to the side at full extension (16') and lifting a hive with honey supers on and did rock the truck slightly.
In that case, you hit the up bar and you hear the crane running. The cable tightens but the hive is still on the ground for a split second. When that heavy of a hive lifts off of the ground, you know you are really lifting something!!

One thing I left out is wire size. Not sure what winch they are using these days, but by all means go oversize on the wire!

Here's another pic; thanks Kieth!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/Almonds2005012.jpg
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
578 Posts
Harry, your setup looks great. I've run an Ezloader at a demo and like it. I used a California-style boom loader for years until I moved up to forklifts, and even after for a while. I think the Ezyloader is much better -- ideal. The self-leveling feature is a huge improvement as is the folding arm which will clear trees and work in tight spots, and allow easy loading near the pivot point, unlike the long boom models. I'd love to have one right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
>>batteries, bu I can tell you that they are twice the size of the batteries in my truck If

1100 CCA should work? I use 900-1100 Ca batteries in my truck

>>You have it mounted at front. I understood the question was about rear mounting. Also, you have the lighter-duty model.

I have the 300 model on order. As I understand it comes with legs?.. So it says in the manual. I will be sure to consider them if they are not available.

I love the pictures Harry,
I am setting up on 2 way hive pallets for the loader to lift. I run doubles. I would like to run 4 ways, but that would be too much for the lift to handle. two hives at a max of 180-200lbs each is well within its capacity.

This machine is also allowing me to think of alternative methods of pulling honey. I am going to use bee escapes for honey pull. I have a neighbour that has alot of experience with them and this method is real appealing to me. Would not consider it without the boom loader.

Any thoughts,

THanks for the input Harry, keep it coming!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,473 Posts
Love those photos Harry. Lookin Gooood. I'm thinking that the first row at the front of the truck is TONS easier with the articulation. We used to load everything with a straight boom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
>>A secondary truck could be loaded side to side.

That was my first thought, and probably how I will set my unit up. But if the unit is placed on the back, would it not provide a much more efficient set up? A yard could be set up very efficiently so the truck would nt have to move much during the yard work.

Another question is if I have the machine rear mounted, and allow movement to swing all round the rear end of the truck, how much over centre can I bring the machine while loading the deck. I understand it cant be swung right around, but can it go a bit further than 180 degrees to allow easy deck access. If you know what I mean. If I set up the loader facing backward to allow free swinging all round, how far over center can I bring the arm on its back side to access the deck?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,899 Posts
>>A secondary truck could be loaded side to side.

Another question is if I have the machine rear mounted, and allow movement to swing all round the rear end of the truck, how much over centre can I bring the machine while loading the deck. I understand it cant be swung right around, but can it go a bit further than 180 degrees to allow easy deck access. If you know what I mean. If I set up the loader facing backward to allow free swinging all round, how far over center can I bring the arm on its back side to access the deck?
Not positivly sure about anything with the 300.
But with mine, there is no need to turn the unit around. The boom will follow you around the truck.
However, You are advised to "not cross the tray of the truck", meaning, set a point on the truck as a point not to pass. Reason? Every time you rotate the boom past 360 degrees you wind the heavy power cable (which you cannot see) in the mast.
If you were to go around and around the truck all day long, eventually the cables would wind up tight inside the mast and ????? :eek:
So I always boom around the truck and use the trailer hitch as my stopping point.
I do allow myself to break the rule if common sense dictates in a situation, but then you just tell yourself to return from the direction from which you came.

Like everything I do, my bottom boards and matching pallets are drawn up on AutoCAD.
They are all the same.
They allow me to load the truck with a forklift, drive 185 miles to the carrots, and unload with the boom. Or, load with the boom onto pallets and unload with a forklift.
I love this arrangement. Here are some pictures of the pallets and bottom boards that I use. I do have drawings that I can e-mail you but they are dwg files so.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00227.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00300.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Shallotman/DSC00226.jpg

I'll get that battery info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,340 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
>>However, You are advised to "not cross the tray of the truck", meaning, set a point on the truck as a point not to pass. Reason? Every time you rotate the boom past 360 degrees you wind the heavy power cable (which you cannot see) in the mast.
If you were to go around and around the truck all day long, eventually the cables would wind up tight inside the mast and ?????
So I always boom around the truck and use the trailer hitch as my stopping point.

Copy that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,899 Posts
The only thing I can find on my batteries is the recipt from Les Schwab.
Sorry, I want to help but not enough to disconnect my batteries and dig them out of their boxes. :rolleyes:

The recipt says, "31-951 STUD HEAVY DUTY 12 VOLT COMMERCIAL BATTERY"
I have two of these wired in parallel.

Here is a tip to remember. A friend told me this when I first got my rig and it is a real power and work saver:

If you are loading on a hill side or on any sloping grade, always point the truck up hill with the majority of hives ahead of the truck as far as you can reach them.
Follow me here:
You are picking up hives on a side hill.
You place your truck so that it is pointing up hill with the majority of hives as far ahead of the truck as the boom wil reach.
You level the boom. Although the truck and hives are on a hiil side, the boom is now orbiting the truck on a level plane. (piece of cake with Ezyloader!)
Now you take the cradle to a hive in front of the truck.
You lift the hive only 6 inches off the ground.
Then you turn your body with the cradle and boom in front of you and start walking down hill, along side the truck.
Because the boom is operating on a level plane, by the time you reach the spot on the bed where you want to place the hive, it is already higher than the bed in many cases.
As you walk down hill the cradle is naturally raising in fron of you because it is on a level plane and your feet are not.
So to load that hive, you only ran the crane 6 inches.
Same goes for unloading. Point your truck uphill toward your desired placement.
Lift the hive 1 inch off of the bed and depending on the grade you will run the crane very little.
Kenny Williams taught me that.
:)
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top