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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can weld so thinking of using some of my scrap 2" angle to make some single stands. I'm tired of the pallet thing and the 4x4 on blocks.
Have some 1/8 inch material that i will paint with some farm implement paint after welding. I only have ten frame langs. Question is should i have a stop on the back or leave it open for any water to drain? will this design cause issues with rot on bottom board? whats the best way to anchor it and/or leveling feet?
 

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If you put the angle down (instead of up) it will not trap water and cause rot issues. If you have solid bottom boards you could make the stand a bit smaller (2 inches) than the bottom board, and it will make it easier to keep the hive on the stand. I would put bricks under feet or weld on something with some surface area to keep them from sinking.
 

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Weld a plate with a hole in it on the bottom of the leg and then weld a 5/8" or larger nut on over the hole on the bottom side of the plate. Thread a long bolt through it to make a leveler bolt. Cut a 2" or 3" pipe at about an inch and a half long and tack it to the bottom of the plate centered around the nut. Then fill the zone between the nut and the pipe with axle grease to make your hive stand ant proof. The grease cup goes on the bottom, facing down, that way it doesn't fill with water. Set the stand on pavers and thread the bolts down until the hive stand is all leveled out with the grease cups a couple of inches above the pavers. Ants can climb the bolt, but they can't cross the grease. Renew the grease each year by smearing some into the grease cup and keep weeds from contacting the stand and enjoy ant free hives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I'm a little concerned about the feet sliding off the pavers. maybe i'll drill out a little from the paver so the bolt doesn't move. I am definitely putting the angle up to keep the side to side movement to zero. Because of the angle i will have the base about an inch bigger then the bottom board as its not a perfect 90 degrees. going to put a tab an inch up or so on the back at least on one side so it won't slide off the back. i have a box of galvanized washers i think i might sit between the bottom board and the stand for an air gap.
 

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I've been mulling over the wisdom of gluing (say) 1/2" x 1/2" battens along the underside edge of the bottom board, effectively forming a 'drip edge' - then make a steel platform for the stand (probably in the shape of an 'H') to fit within those battens. That way, the top part of the steel stand won't be exposed to rain, and there'd be no need to worry about rainwater being held against the wood, causing rot.
LJ
 

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I wouldn't put the angle up, it will definitely hold moisture on your bottom boards. I welded single hive stands from 1/2" EMT. Zero problems with movement, side to side or front to back. The legs sit on pavers, which are easy to level by moving a little dirt. The legs are also easy to grease with vaseline if ants start to be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wouldn't put the angle up, it will definitely hold moisture on your bottom boards. I welded single hive stands from 1/2" EMT. Zero problems with movement, side to side or front to back. The legs sit on pavers, which are easy to level by moving a little dirt. The legs are also easy to grease with vaseline if ants start to be a problem.
1/2 inch emt? Think i will go a lot heavier. my hives often go over 200 pounds. I really want sturdy over some rot on bottom boards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've been mulling over the wisdom of gluing (say) 1/2" x 1/2" battens along the underside edge of the bottom board, effectively forming a 'drip edge' - then make a steel platform for the stand (probably in the shape of an 'H') to fit within those battens. That way, the top part of the steel stand won't be exposed to rain, and there'd be no need to worry about rainwater being held against the wood, causing rot.
LJ
I can see this working. Think making a sawcut in the battens like under a windowsill would keep the water off the top of the frame. i'm guessing the first part of the frame that will rust is on the blocks. my 1/8 inch steel takes a long time to rot away.
 

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1/2 inch emt? Think i will go a lot heavier. my hives often go over 200 pounds. I really want sturdy over some rot on bottom boards.
Maybe it was 3/4"? It was just what I had laying around at the time. I'll take a look to verify what I used, they are a couple years old and I haven't had to think about them.
I run 10 frame mediums, have had 6 boxes tall on them with no problem. That would have been well over 100 pounds.
Heavier would obviously work, and be easier to weld as well.
 
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