Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

Mead quality honey?

1 reading
544 views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  Roland  
#1 ·
I have a medium super of honey from a queen less hive that is just showing signs of small hive bettle larvae. The majority of the honey appears to be fine and I've placed them in the freezer.
I'm not a mead person, but I have a friend at work who is. Is this honey safe for mead making?
 
#6 ·
For a few years now, I've been trying to get a straight answer about the yeast that the small hive larvae produce and it's effects on over wintering in cold climates. My plan is to select my worst two hives and see if there's any noticeable changes, like diarrhea. These hives haven't made enough honey to get them through winter and should make good test subjects.
 
#12 ·
Which is a good way to spread disease, like AFB. AFB can erupt when the bees are stressed at spore levels that did not previously show symptoms.
Fear of AFB is a thing from the 1960's. Back then, the threat was real.

It is simply not a concern today. I not only feed honey from one hive to another, I do cutouts (professionally) and feed the FERAL honey back to my bees.
 
#16 ·
I will defer to a mead maker on that question. I do not know.

As to AFB, I think the 60's where safer. Terramycin was available at Dadant without a prescription, and honey was not tested, so prophylactic use was possible. Besides, unlike today, most beekeepers where long term, had seen AFB, would recognize the symptoms, and would take corrective action. How many people on this forum have seen AFB?

Psycho Roland
 
#20 ·
Although I only made mead over a period of 4 or 5 years,I never boiled the initial must nor did I use any sulfites.
Good honey,a strong yeast starter with a yeast strain recommended for mead,sufficient yeast nutrients add at the proper time and proper temps can give you an excellent product.

The trick is to get the good yeasties to reproduce rapidly and totally out compete the bad.

Over 10 yrs later,I still get people asking if I brought any mead with me.

For those really interested,I recommend:

The Compleat Meadmaker: Home Production of Honey Wine From Your First Batch to Award-winning Fruit and Herb Variations Google Search

And anything written by Shea Comfort.

 
#21 ·
Any bubbling frames from small hive infestation should be cleaned out by you not the bees. Never feed fermented honey to your bees.

When I make mead I heat the honey and water. Yeast dies in 10-15 minutes at 130F and within 2 minutes at 140F. This is far from boiling. To get honey and water to mix well, not to mention any spice added, prior to pouring into the carboy you are warming the entire contents anyway. Why stop at 120F when 130F kills yeast? Eliminate any possible poor yeast contamination in favor of pure champagne yeast when your mixture cools to 110F. Some activate yeast with small amount of sugar water, I just pitch it into the carboy when the mixture is the right temp and cooling.