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Discussion Starter #1
I am building the Pillow block for the maxant chain uncapper. There is a link on the page to show how to install it but none work, When I google seach it all links are to the same page, I've tried 3 different computors.

Does anyone have an active link that will show how to install it, I think I figured it out but the type of bolt head that will fit in that little slot is my ?

Thanks for looking
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yup thats the pictue. Every link on the Internet sends me to that one, Just cant see how its installed. The link dosnt work. It must bolt to the machine, then the 2 loops that hold the chain bearings bolt into the slots on the block, As soon as the shop is done building it, I'll try and figure what bolts will fit into that tiny angled wedge.

The Machine I got is series 1700 model 1

So probably not new.. runs good, no honey yet..
 

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please let me know how this works out for you. I have aquired and older MAXANT chain uncapper. I like using it and it works pretty well depth wise on med frames but boy does it dig deep on the deep frames. I figured building the pillow block would help.
 

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Cant you just change the bearing to a PILLOWBLOCK BEARING-thats all mine came with-gives you the adjustment needed-just match the shaft size-I know this piece that you speak of(the pillow block you are having made) has been done sucesfuly but I cant help but wonder what is going to happen- wont that raise the rells up -wont the chains hit the gaurd :rolleyes: what exactly dose the old style look like-these bearings are inexspensive :) somthing to think about
http://www.google.com/products?client=safari&q=pillow+block+bearing&oe=UTF-8&show=dd&sa=N&start=0

http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/3-4-Pill-Block-Bearing-p/479355.htm?click=1014
:) RDY-B
http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/asse...lock-mounted-bearing-extra-strength-beh8a.pdf
http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/eng/...sleeve-bearings/pillow-block-mounted-bearings
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It will raise the reels a little , I think. Not sure why a retro kit isn't offered. The guys that are building it, are not real excited about having to punch, and grind, solid stainless steel. It will cost me a couple of pizzas.

I looked at the bearings, that could work also, just a slotted bearing footing. It would be a crude control. I would build it with a notched or numbered adjustment , the belts not that tight , they could move 1/2 inch either way no problem. If you come to a shallower frame, not as drawn just click it up to 8 run it and click it back down to 5 for norm. I would just like to see this video on how to put the block on.
 

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We do offer a retro kit. It is pricey however.
Give me a call when I get back from N. Carolina and we can go over this with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the quick reply. Thats great . I'm exctracting for several people and may have to switch back and forth. I'll give the shop block a try and if that dosn't get the job done, I will call. Money is no object, well it kinda is thats why its used. Next spring I'm shooting for a cappings spinner to set this on. Baby steps:shhhh:
 

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works pretty well depth wise on med frames but boy does it dig deep on the deep frames. I figured building the pillow block would help.
does it dig deep on one side of the frame or both. the one I had didn't cut straight up and down on deep frames, Maxant put on a change that made them go straighter, a change that they got from another customer if I remember correctly.
 

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It'd be nice if we could just change out the chain reels and put the ones for this in there instead "Maxant-Mraz Marvel"...how pricey is the retro kit? I just aquired a complete sideliner setup, with no adjustment...but the price was right:)..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just pulled mine of last night, there is a little ajustment in the bearing loop, maybe 1/4 inch. I'm going to go by the bearing place get some new ones and maybe have our shop, elongate the loop a little. Dosn't seem like it would take much adjustment since it would be on both sides, 1/4 inch each way would help leave on 1/2 inch of comb overall.

Of course I've never used mine yet so its speculation. But the replacement blocks are very cheap, might as well work with new ones. I told them to hold off on the pillow blocks. If this dosn't work, I'll punt.
 

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does it dig deep on one side of the frame or both. the one I had didn't cut straight up and down on deep frames
I will have to pull a couple frames and look at them I dont remember. I think it dug deep on both. def cut deeper on the bottom half of the frame almost down to foundation. Med frames came out pretty nice but I did not like the cut on the deeps so we went back to the planer and knife until I have time to fiddle with the chain uncapper and get it right. Its very fast though I really like that, and the price was right $0.00.:D
 

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one other thing to think about-Is the machine dose not preform best with plastic frames-I replaced several thousand with wood and am much happier
with the results-RDY-B
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You had mentioned that before, Do the plastic frames tend to rattle and cut deep or does the wax release off the plastic. Give me an idea what to watch for. I don't mind plastic foundation with wood frames, if you build them in smaller batches.
 

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the frame flexes-botom of frame weak frame BOWS in when this happens the back side of frame is PUSHED into the rells deper and most of the time wax and honey was removed down to the foundation-this was with- pierco RDY-B
 

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I dont use plastic frames or foundation, thanks for all the info
 
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