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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maxant 1400 10/20F owners, I need a favour... Quick... go grab a ruler/tape measure.
(Unplug the machine... no hands in a running piece of equipment please)

Measure the distance between your tank and the reel in your extractor. Rotate the reel around and measure that gap between your tank and the reel. How much does your reel wobble? ie.. what's the min and max measurement you get.

I got a brand new 1400P last week. I have yet to extract with it (missing the bolt-down lugs to mount to my platform). I am less than impressed with the fabrication tolerances on this reel... it wanders all over the place. Curious what other owners are experiencing.

My old maxant 4F tangential (essentially the same tank and drive setup as the newer 10/20F) spins almost perfectly true. The honey gate is also 1/16" off the bottom of the tank, not 9/16" like the new unit... 1/2" of honey sitting in the bottom at all times??? Can't even modify the tank and weld on a stub, as the silicone/epoxy sealant in the bottom of the tank can't be removed!

Frustrated... everything you read online gives them RAVE reviews! People talk of great service and great equipment, it's obvious they make good stuff for a range of extracting/processing needs. But I am disappointed in this new extractor, and their response so far has been "don't like it, figure out a way to get it back to your supplier."
 

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Mine walks. Its not tight as far as the radial run out but I do not think this is a critical issue. Yes it would be nice if Jake could make all the baskets to a tighter tolerance. I am on my fifth season with mine. No performance issues yet. Call Jake and tell him that you would like to see tighter tolerances on the basket and see what he tells you and let us know.
 

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My basket has no wobble inside the machine. While turning the basket the distance to the side doesn't vary more than 1/8".
Perhaps you're basket was dropped.
The nut on my honey gate almost touches the bottom, couldn't get it lower unless you welded on a fitting.

Our machine is a year old.
 

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Be sure and measure and gauge total diameter of basket at top,25% down,50% down,75% down and then finally the bottom. Make marks so you measure in all the same places as you rotate the basket. That will tell you if there is an offset in the basket. Bolting Rivets and welds should be uniform at joints also.
I would measure the top of basket to wall and also the bottom of basket to wall and then rotate and do the same. Basket should be totally vertical/plumb if the 1st measurements check out for basket wobble.
As far as flange being that far from bottom. I would pour epoxy in tank to bring the bottom up to lower part of valve flange or flush so the honey would all drain and maybe even a slight tilt 180deg on opposite side just a 1/4" higher with the epoxy. That would guarantee complete drain and cleaning would be easier also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maxant's reply is "Everything is hand made, so there will be some variances when we make the spokes/reels."

Any manufacturing industry I've been involved with would have tossed this stuff in the scrap. Whether clients are paying pennies for an injection molded part, or thousands of dollars for a custom rubber component, they expect perfection.

As for my question regarding the height of the honey drain, their reply is "As for honey gate placement, its always been like that, and I agree its a
pain to get that last little batch of honey out from the bottom. There are no plans in the future to change this design.
"

Well that's crap, cause I have the older Maxant unit to prove they have had a drain 1/16" off the bottom. I just rinsed out my 4F Maxant tangential tonight in prep for extracting, and with my platform tipped forward (10°?) I have almost zero water remaining in the bottom of the tank. They have all the equipment and skills on-site to weld on a fitting at the bottom of the tank. Heck, Dadant is doing it! Although based on the pics I can find of the Dadant unit, it's about 1/4" gap b/w bottom and drain.

Based on what I'm seeing online, the previous generation 1400 extractors had the same honey gate design, but the reel was much better made.
 

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I don't think my email said if you don't like it, figure out a way to get it back to your dealer.
I can send you a new basket, but would encourage you to actually try the machine first, you will see the run out doesn't change or affect the performance.
Jake
 

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(missing the bolt-down lugs to mount to my platform)

Thats not a Maxant supplied item is it? I bought by bolts from Home Deport to secure my base to my platform.

"Heck, Dadant is doing it! "

I guess the immediate question would be why didn't you purchase the Dadant extractor then, especially with your extreme knowledge regarding extractor tolerances?

For the record I have a 2 year old Dadant 20 framer and the reel is not perfectly true to the tank. Keep in mind that measuring the space between the reel and the tank to determine the reel tolerance is only as accurate as the true-ness of the tank itself. My Dadant works perfect and I assure you the reel is not perfectly true. To complain to such a degree without ever having tried the machine first is way over the top.
 

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I don't think my email said if you don't like it, figure out a way to get it back to your dealer.
I can send you a new basket, but would encourage you to actually try the machine first, you will see the run out doesn't change or affect the performance.
Jake
My first question is how do I even know if this person even bought a Maxant or not :scratch: ???



BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Long and short of it... The unit has been returned to my dealer and a refund received.

(missing the bolt-down lugs to mount to my platform)

Thats not a Maxant supplied item is it? I bought by bolts from Home Deport to secure my base to my platform. .
The bolt down lugs would be the tabs welded to the bottom of the tank that allow you to bolt it to a platform. My supplier was "confused" by my order... he supplied a leg-version without the legs; Whereas I ordered a 'bolt-down lug' version... based on my older Maxant having bolt down lugs.


"Heck, Dadant is doing it! "

I guess the immediate question would be why didn't you purchase the Dadant extractor then, especially with your extreme knowledge regarding extractor tolerances?
Dadant items are not as "easily" sourced in Canada, atleast not in my area. This Maxant unit was only 6 hours away. I also didn't know that Maxant had changed their methods of manufacturing so much compared to my old Maxant unit.

As for manufacturing tolerances, I come from the Auto industry, now in the mining/industrial industry. I've seen custom made equipment returned for a lot less.

To complain to such a degree without ever having tried the machine first is way over the top.
Can't return a used piece of equipment.


My first question is how do I even know if this person even bought a Maxant or not :scratch: ???
I can supply photos to prove it. But I guess it's true in the age of internet bandits and scammers that you can't take a man's word for anything.
 

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Good luck with your next extractor if you purchase one.
 

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For the price that these things go for I would expect better tolerances also. If everyone just says "oh well, thats just how they are made nowadays." and does not say anything to the manufacturer, the quality will only continue to decline. Why do we continue to buy poor quality?
 

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Our club owns Mann Lake, & Dadant machines. 4 frame 6 frame & 8 frame. I can attest that the quality of our Maxant blows the other two out of the water. I've used all 3
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My biggest beef is the sealant used on the bottom of the tank... fine, the reel looks like it was rolled by a high school kid who happened to have access to a TIG welder. But because of the special epoxy sealant on the bottom of the tank, there is no way to modify the drain on the bottom.

Since so many are sold with legs (and platforms could be built to accommodate this...)... weld the drain on the bottom. Do it prior to assembly of the tank to the bottom. Either use a stainless weld bung, a stainless coupler with nptf threads cut in half, or a stainless pipe coupling w/ npt threads cut on the outside...
-double-plate bottom of tank 4" square around hole to add strength (like you did with your old soldered tanks on the side-riveted/soldered drains)... this is still optional...
-cut hole (plasma/water jet/hole saw)
-locate pipe fitting in centre of hole
-weld both sides
-Use 90° elbow (PVC or SS... PVC is cheap... NSF61 certified 2" elbow w/ NPTF threaded ends is $7.20/ea through mcmaster carr)
-Thread honey valve into elbow.

Stainless pipe nipple threaded both ends NPT, 3" length so you can cut in half and use half on one extractor... 304 $10.61, 316 $12.72... 45 seconds to run through a band saw with a shop rate of $70/hr = $0.86 per cut... $12.72+0.86=$13.58/2 pieces = $6.79 per piece.

Should take your welder 3 minutes total per nipple if he's got a row of them to do. TIG is less cleanup, MIG is faster but more cleanup.

Now the tank drains completely when the valve is opened. Simple. Just be sure the bottom gets welded on in the proper orientation relative to the leg mounts. Build the locating of bottom relative to leg holes into the welding jig, make it fool proof, automatic QC check.

And because the drain is a threaded connection, the end user is free to change piping to drain to a sump, pump into a wax spinner, etc...

As for the risk of hitting the valve and breaking the plastic elbow... you're just as likely to damage the current valve setup. Since the drain isn't under pressure, it doesn't hurt to score a line around the elbow to give it a weak spot... if someone hits the elbow, they break it instead of tearing the bottom of the tank. It's a safety feature. ;)

I still like the Maxant unit for it's belt-drive adjustable speed setup with the double bearings and leather washer. It's simple, it works well, it is easily serviced and parts aren't unobtainable on short notice.

Bank my royalty fees and I'll use them on a new extracting line. :)
 

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I have an older 20 frame Dadant that when you watch it spin (empty) the tolerances between the reel and the tank wall are all over the place. You have to wonder how it would ever run balanced..........but it does! My thought when I saw it spin for the first time was that someone had dropped the basket at the shop it appeared to be so out of round compared to the wall, but it spins perfectly balanced. Go figure.
I have a Maxant 300 lb bottling tank that is nothing short of a piece of art it looks and works so well. I'm happy with both manufacturers, and when looking to buy (the bottling tank is the only thing I have that I bought new) I look for either of those names and a fair price. Both will outlast me!
 

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I love my maxant 1400P. Mine walks when it first starts once the honey equalizes out of the frames the wobble goes away. So I start slow and then speed it up as the honey equalizes.

I am kind of offended at the starters motivation in this thread. All my maxant equipment is amazing. I have a bottling tank and a wax melter. All premium. I even had them make me a custom top for my wax melter. Just top notch people. I wear my Maxant baseball cap at least 3 days a week. (mix it up with some others.)
 
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