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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the maxant bottling tank 600-3 and I wanted to drain the site glass of water to prevent possible freezing one evening. I turned both valves closed tight and drained the site glass of water. The lower valve still allows water in the tank to leak back up into the site glass. Tried repacking the lower valve and no change. The valves themselves don't leak around the stem... just won't seal off the valve from allowing water back up in the glass.

Do I need to replace these decorative valves with better quality valves?
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The actual sealing surface inside may be damaged or have some material lodged in there. In the latter case you could get lucky.The packing gland nut under the handle can be backed off allowing the stem to be removed to examine it and view the corresponding seat which is in the body of the valve. Extreme care is necessary not to stress and break the glass sight tube. Replacement valves have to have exact dimensions or replaced in matching pairs with the accompanying sight glass tube.

I have installed or replaced quite a few such assemblies but never dealt with reseating of those in particular.
 

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Why not just drain the tank?
or

Why not turn the thermostat to its lowest setting, mine is marked 60* F, this would keep any water from freezing.

I have the same tank, just pulled the top valve off and it has a metal to metal seat (poor design IMHO). The seats have a little corrosion on them and a quick buff with some fine sandpaper makes them look new again. The inside seat can get a little attention from a rifle brush or just work the valve open and closed several times to polish the crud off of them.

No need to tighten the packing nut too tight, it seals with an "O" ring.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the picture G3farms. That and what Crofter said is probably the culprit. I normally would just drain the tank but I needed to bottle and we had some extreme temperature swings. I will let you know what I find.

Contacted Maxant to ask about these valves as they are normally pretty good in supporting their products... haven't heard back. I assumed they are aware of this condition as I had asked if replacement valves would be a better solution. I will try buffing the contact areas and see if this will seal off the water should I ever be in this predicament again.
 

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Thanks for the picture G3farms. That and what Crofter said is probably the culprit. I normally would just drain the tank but I needed to bottle and we had some extreme temperature swings. I will let you know what I find.

Contacted Maxant to ask about these valves as they are normally pretty good in supporting their products... haven't heard back. I assumed they are aware of this condition as I had asked if replacement valves would be a better solution. I will try buffing the contact areas and see if this will seal off the water should I ever be in this predicament again.
The seat could have corrosion as well as the stem face picture G3 so handily provided. Sometimes repeated tight closing and opening will burnish the surfaces enough to exact a seal.
 

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I had an issue with mine from the getgo. I really had to put a more then expected amount of pressure on them to seal. For the trouble i'd just drain till you will bottle. Any water in that jacket that freezes could be bad.
 

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I had an issue with mine from the getgo. I really had to put a more then expected amount of pressure on them to seal. For the trouble i'd just drain till you will bottle. Any water in that jacket that freezes could be bad.
Yes they are quite a blunt and wide seat contact, so not easy to seal. If you were an auto mechanic you would be familiar with a "three angle valve seat grind" It narrows the contact area for a more concentrated pinch. The seat and stem could be refaced but it would take a fairly clever monkey to not risk a total F U B A R situation.
 

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To reface the metal to metal seat, use a little lapping compound, you will want a fine grit, finer than valve grinding compound that you will find at most auto parts stores. You can order different grades from loctite clover brand.
I really see no reason to ever close off the valves myself, the tank will only hold a couple of gallons of water. Just too easy to drain and refill.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, normally I'd just drain the tank, but in this particular circumstance I needed to bottle asap and had a tank full of crystalized honey and -25c temperatures in the evening.

I removed and cleaned the stem valve surface and the inside valve seat best I could and under a magnify the valve surfaces were both clean with no visible pitting but I must have missed something. After repacking the valve, refilling water tank, it still leaked water into the site glass with both valves shut tight. Obvious the surface(s) are not seating tightly. Short of replacing the decorative site glass valves with head plugs, I'll try and see about better resurfacing the stem valve when its warmer or possible replacing the valves altogether.
 
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