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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been spending some time in my wood shop making up supers



I also make my own foundationless frames





I have been replacing the top bar on older frames

 

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I wish I knew how to make them. I'd like to take a course in woodworking, but can't find one around here. Good job.
 

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What kind of wood are you using for the foundationless top bars? They look like treated lumber. They probally aren't but I had to ask.
 

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good looking boxjoints. Nice fit. Mine get off a little. Great job on the frames. I just dont have the patience for them. Take care Peace Dave
 

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When I try to use the Dato blade on my table-saw, The wood bounces and is very hard to hold straight. I can only cut the rabbets for the frame ledge by going in very small increments and making multiple cuts. Is there a trick?
 

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When I try to use the Dato blade on my table-saw, The wood bounces and is very hard to hold straight. I can only cut the rabbets for the frame ledge by going in very small increments and making multiple cuts. Is there a trick?
In situations like this: I've remedied it by doing a couple of different things. First, be sure to have nice sharp carbide toothed dado blade. Second, clamp a piece of wood to the saw table, on the opposite side of the blade, leaving just enough space for the work piece to be fed through the gap - in other words a guide strip. Or you could try cutting the frame rest rabbet in the other orientation, with the board flat on the saw table as it's fed through the blade.

When feeding the work piece oriented flat -vs- on edge, you can fasten a sacrificial fence to the saw fence, that holds the work piece firmly against the saw table as its fed past the blade - or featherboards can perform a similar function.
 
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