[kirghizstan]

I'm building a hive right now and i have a few questions

1) following Dave's Bees video all my bars are 1 3/8" but then i read that people are in favor of using 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" bars for distinct applications. should i modify what i have?

2) the top bars are a VERY tight fit on mine, how tight is too tight or put better, how loose should they be to make them easily removable without letting the bees get through.

3) any tips for making the roof hinged

4) i was going to do a screened bottom like i saw on the video, but now I'm reading that maybe i shouldn't. i've read that having the screen permanently attached and a removable bottom below is bad because the bees cannot get past the screen to put proplis on the bottom board. thoughts

Thanks

 

[Rader Sidetrack]

Welcome to Beesource!


You can solve issues #2 and #3 with a top entrance that does not restrict placement of bars, and is much easier to construct. Granted a flat roof is not as 'pretty' as a gable roof, but it is very practical.

More info and photos here: http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm

 

[kirghizstan]

If it was just for me then I would do a flat roof but my kids are helping me make it as a Mother's Day gift and they want it roof with a hinge. So there goes the easy way out

 

[Epclayton]

I used a piano hinge on mine.

 

[Striider]

I used a piano hinge on mine. View attachment 10590

+1 for piano hinge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMjKjzWT_ew

I like the vaulted roof for storage too. Sorry, but not sure yet about the bottom screens usefulness either. I have sugar syrup dripping down there they cant get to, and doubt they like the light entering on the edges, but they also seem happy so who knows. I cleaned out the dead bees after package install that were on the screen, but there were small pieces left behind. They had the remnants cleaned up by that afternoon and the screen is spotless. I think I will try solid bottom for my next TB hive, since bees seem to be VERY good at cleaning up by themselves. Not sure yet about ventilation though, as it has not gotten hot yet.

Top bar tightness:
Mine have 1/2" space at one end, and tight at other. once the dividers and other bars get propolised in place, its easy to keep them tight, although you have to take care not to knock them apart when the hive is brand new. Not sure tightness matters much as long as you check it before leaving the hive.

 

[Jonesjungle]

We are very new to this and instead of 2 sizes of top bars we also decided on 1 3/8. The package was installed on 4-13 and have just started work on bar #10. Our hive inspection a week ago found all the comb built out straight. The only problem was the spacer bar in the front was too wide. It was also 1 3/8 but no comb guild so they were building on that up against the front wall at the entrance end. I replaced it with an 11/16 ths (1/2 a top bar) Our bars are not real tight side to side but they are snug when all in place next to each other.. They rest on a rail so they are a little loose to be able to get them out. Our roof edge is boxed to fit on the edge of the hive so it is hinged to the hive body. We did put screen in the bottom but made a tight fitting closed bottom that can be removed or opened at the ends to remove a thin sheet of ply board. We got so many conflicting ideas that we incorporated a lot of them. I love the window.

 

[fruitveggirl]

I'm building a hive right now and i have a few questions

1) following Dave's Bees video all my bars are 1 3/8" but then i read that people are in favor of using 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" bars for distinct applications. should i modify what i have?

4) i was going to do a screened bottom like i saw on the video, but now I'm reading that maybe i shouldn't. i've read that having the screen permanently attached and a removable bottom below is bad because the bees cannot get past the screen to put proplis on the bottom board. thoughts

Thanks

All of my bars are 1 3/8". I didn't have any issues at all.

Last year, my hives had a permanent screen with removable board beneath that. The bees propolised the screen, so they really didn't serve their purpose. This year I got rid of the screens and just put in a fixed wooden bottom. BTW, I also heard that Marla Spivak has done studies and found that applying a solution of propolis and 70% isopropyl alcohol (use a 1-1 ratio of propolis/alcohol) to the inside of the hive greatly increases hygiene, so I also did that this spring.