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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day I was cleaning a hive body that had mildew on the inside walls and had a thought.

Even though having both bottom and top entrances has helped in reducing condensation and the related issues of mildew, mold, algae and even rot. It is still there in the hive.

Also, the bottom of the hive gets a build up of rubbish that can take a bit of an effort to clean off.

So the thought was: What if you line the inside of the hive with self adhesive vinyl contact?

That way the mildew or rubbish on the bottom board will be on top of the vinyl contact. When it comes time to clean it, just peel it off. Then replace with a new sheet.

Anyone had experience with mildew growing on vinyl contact. Does it get underneath it?
 

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Part of what contributes to a hive molding is that it is usually painted. unpainted or otherwise coated wood will breath better and dry out faster. Yes moisture will let under the liner just like it would a truck bed and you will have made it so that moisture will remain longer.

Most mold have a very limited range of both moisture and temperature in which it can grow. change either even for a short time and it will kill it. Since you really can't mess around with the temperature in a hive. the only thing left is to alter the humidity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will be trying it on a couple of new boxes I'm making at the moment. They will be painted on the inside as well.

The ones I haven't painted on the inside end up deteriorating from the inside out.

Also, I've noticed the mildew is mainly on the sides, rather than the front and back. Even if the cluster is on an outside frame, they tend to be on the inner side of that frame when it's cold and so condensation can form on the wall.
 

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I paint the outside leave the inside bare wood.
 

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Unpainted pine won't last very long around here. It stays too wet for too long.

What do you use?
My climate is probably a little more humid than yours?
We use Hoop Pine and paint inside as well. I use migratory lids on all the hives - ventilation helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Max, I just compared the stats on the bom.gov.au site. Where I am in Gippsland we have an annual relative humity of 81% where yours is 67%. But you get more than twice the rain annually. This year has been very wet and lower temps the last couple of months. It's been like early spring since July.

The main flow is usually starting to slow down around now but hasn't really started yet.

I think the main issue is temperature. Nightly temperatures are typically between 5-10°C (40-50°F) most of the months of the year, so the inside of the walls get condensation forming on them often.
 

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Hi Max, I just compared the stats on the bom.gov.au site. Where I am in Gippsland we have an annual relative humity of 81% where yours is 67%. But you get more than twice the rain annually. This year has been very wet and lower temps the last couple of months. It's been like early spring since July.

The main flow is usually starting to slow down around now but hasn't really started yet.

I think the main issue is temperature. Nightly temperatures are typically between 5-10°C (40-50°F) most of the months of the year, so the inside of the walls get condensation forming on them often.
We just took off another 236 kg of honey. The mainflow will ease now and I make sure the bees have enough for their own needs. Condensation is really only an issue here in winter. Right now we have day time temps around the high 20 C and at night it will drop to the high tens.

Winter- typically we have very cold mornings - say 7 to 10 C ( we can get frosts but it is not common) and the days warm up to 20 to 25C.
We do take honey off all year round as there is always something flowering.

I plan to do my last batch of splits this month or early Jan - just because I have to many orders otherwise I would leave the bees alone.

I did have another slime out - good one day and gone a week later.

To come back to the start - I would definitely paint or dip ( I wish I had the equipment)
 
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