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Why not just put the frames in on their own? With the bottom bumps still there, they are like feet. Top bumps give you a quick grip and then you can use them between new layens frames. Then if you want to get rid of them, you can cut the zipties, put it in a nuc and sell it or keep it, which ever :)
 

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Does the 9 gauge wire hold a full frame without bending?

This year I am transitioning to these type of frames rather than the standard Layens I built. I am going to use the layens in the brood nest as I don't want to scrap them, but I like the ease of obtaining the standard langs and so I hope to use this configuration in the honey area. I was going to attach a top bar with screws but I do have 9 gauge wire as well and this looks much simpler.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I can't say for sure since I am just now converting them. GregV is using political sign wire stands, which I'm guessing is pretty close to the same gauge. I doubt they would be heavy enough to bend the 9 gauge, even full of honey.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Why not just put the frames in on their own? With the bottom bumps still there, they are like feet. Top bumps give you a quick grip and then you can use them between new layens frames. Then if you want to get rid of them, you can cut the zipties, put it in a nuc and sell it or keep it, which ever :)
I'm likely going to stay with these frames for awhile. I'd like to maintain some space below the frames, hence the hangers. It should be easy enough to pull the wire out and cut the zip ties as you suggest. Even with an small hole in the ear, they should still hold if placed in standard lang box again.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'm giving GregV's method a try. Joined these together with biscuits. Now for the new frame rests and to build out the inside a bit.
62180
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Does the 9 gauge wire hold a full frame without bending?

This year I am transitioning to these type of frames rather than the standard Layens I built. I am going to use the layens in the brood nest as I don't want to scrap them, but I like the ease of obtaining the standard langs and so I hope to use this configuration in the honey area. I was going to attach a top bar with screws but I do have 9 gauge wire as well and this looks much simpler.
I'm basically planning to do the same thing, just in the other order. I have an abundance of drawn mediums. As I cycle old black combs out, I'll open up the middle of these attached frames by cutting off the original bottom bar of the Lang medium. Then I'll screw on a proper top bar/bottom bar splice of some sort and use them for brood, letting them draw their own fresh comb. I think the dowels(arrows) I was going to use to hang them will instead be used for cross support in the middle of these open frames.
 

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Just today I was cleaning out a dead out (harvested lots of honey!)
This is a hybrid hive, btw.

Here is an ad-hoc frame that was in there along with the normal frames.
I need more of these made up to just have them on-hand and ready.
Otherwise, I run out of good frames and start using just the top bars; then the combs full of honey often break off.
It is much better to just have zipped up frames as a backup.
 

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I doubt they would be heavy enough to bend the 9 gauge, even full of honey.
This political sign wire works fine (whatever the gage is).
Those 1" stubs sticking out are very hard to bend - give a try and see.
 

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I'm giving GregV's method a try. Joined these together with biscuits. Now for the new frame rests and to build out the inside a bit.
Here is one experimental hybrid hive where I tried to create bio-walls/insulation (so to use the volume below the frame rests).
Used 1/2" screen to hold in place wood shavings (added some slum-gum blotches too).
This is how it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
62310

I realize I'm going about this the hard way, but I had the boxes to sacrifice. Spliced with biscuits, then glued and attached boxes to each other with pocket screws. I'm debating whether to insulate the outside as well. I have lots of foam I used to wrap these when I wintered as triple med langs. I sized them to hold 2 supers up top side by side should I ever put 2 colonies in it.
 

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View attachment 62310
I realize I'm going about this the hard way, but I had the boxes to sacrifice. Spliced with biscuits, then glued and attached boxes to each other with pocket screws. I'm debating whether to insulate the outside as well. I have lots of foam I used to wrap these when I wintered as triple med langs. I sized them to hold 2 supers up top side by side should I ever put 2 colonies in it.
Wow, this is a nice coffin.
:)
Anyway, I'd consider having the box as-is, to at list maintain some sort of portability and minimize the weight and bulk.
Just provision some external insulation for the front and back in winter (foam slabs what not).
The side insulation will be trivial by dummy board and the air pockets.
 
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