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Discussion Starter #1
I can't seem to get it to come out. I hooked a piece of coat hanger through it and tried to pull it out. No luck. Is there some way to pop it out from behind? This is the type of hive I have. I'm trying to avoid taking off the boxes, but it looks like that is the only way.
 

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I have one of those hive tools with a hook on one end. Some I can hook and pull. If the reducer is taller than the other shims on the bottom board, the full weight of the hive can be on the reducer. In this case, put your tool between the box and the bottom board shim right in the corner by the reducer and pry just a little.

If I do that I usually have to do it on the other corner too to get the reducer to come out. If the hive isn't overly propolized, you can lift on the bottom front handle and see if you can get enough weight off of the reducer to get it out.
 

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grindMARC,
The entrance reducer may be propolised in place. Use your hive tool and try and push it inwards a bit to break it loose. If that does not work break the boxes loose and and lift up on the front and then break the reducer loose.
 

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Is it nailed down? If not just pry it lose from the top and bottom. No trick to it.
 

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Take your hive tool (wide flat edge) and insert it between the box and the bottom board in the front corner. Pry up a little and pull out one side of the reducer and then work the rest loose. You only need to raise the box 1/16" or so.
 

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Now this is why you need at least two hive tools !!!!

Take your hive tool (wide flat edge) and insert it between the box and the bottom board in the front corner. Pry up a little and use the 2nd hive tool to knock the reducer loose and pull it out.

Never leave home without 2 hive tools. Sometimes the reducer is a bit too tall and the hive weight is actually resting on the reducer. That will cause problems trying to get the thing out.
 

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I just pry up a corner of the lowest box and then pull the thing off. Sometimes if it's only marginally propolized you can push one side inwards, pivoting it around the middle, and then grab the end that's now sticking out.

Since I went to SBBs I don't change the reducers much, really almost never.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the suggestions. I didn't consider that the full weight of the hive could be sitting on there. As soon as i got the hive tool under the corner I was able to get it out. It was pretty wet and swollen from all the rain we have been getting in NJ.

Cheers!
 

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I am making some screened bottom boards for my Sundance 11 pollen traps. I made the cut outs in the 2" X 4" snug for a good fit so that the bottom brood chamber fits into the cut out.
I decided to run the 2 x 4 through the saw one more time so that there is some allowence for water absorbtion.
You might consider drying out that wood strip and running it through a saw to give you better clearance.
Ernie

 

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grindMark,

Are you using a solid bottom board? If you are you will find they get pretty grungy by spring. You need to get the bottom box off and scrape the bottom board clean. This is part of my spring cleaning. That is a good time to loosen up your reducer. Notice I said loosen not remove. It is kind of early to remove it, unless New Jersey is a lot warmer than New York! :)

Bill Schaefer
 

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Here’s a little trick that will often get a stuck entrance reducer out quickly without having to pry up the hive bodies. It requires a Maxant-style hive tool and one other of any type. Stick the J-hook of the Maxant tool in the open hole of the entrance reducer and hook it around the inside of the reducer. Then, place the flat blade of the other tool across the entrance hole, sliding it up to the Maxant tool so as to provide a firm surface on which the flat lever surface of the Maxant tool can bear. Lever out the entrance reducer by pulling on the Maxant tool, rotating the entrance reducer about its far end.

Placement of the hive tools.


Attempt to rotate about the far end of the reducer (right end in this instance), not about the hole in the reducer.
 
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