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Danny, would appreciate you letting us know how many queens you have inseminated and the results using your various apparatus, pictures would also be good, if the apparatus is just experimental but never been used, I will also understand and appreciate that, please just say so if that is the case, as it will make things so much more understandable and the way forward so much easier. Your friend in the south, Pete.
 

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Danny, would appreciate you letting us know how many queens you have inseminated and the results using your various apparatus, pictures would also be good, if the apparatus is just experimental but never been used, I will also understand and appreciate that, please just say so if that is the case, as it will make things so much more understandable and the way forward so much easier. Your friend in the south, Pete.
We had four attempts with only one going on to lay, I never did any more last year due to moving my main workshop to a bigger place; The way ahead is to move to better permanent site, still waiting to hear from the land owner to reorganise an abandoned apiary which is a jungle right now, it has two wild colonies surviving in older equipment that was left behind, it is a superb spot though with no big agri in a ten mile radius, an ideal spot surrounded by virgin woodland and ESA status, when we get sorted I will take some decent photographs of everything working.
 

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We had four attempts with only one going on to lay, I never did any more last year due to moving my main workshop to a bigger place;
Well done, Danny, practice makes perfect, hope all goes well with the new workshop, just made a few more insemination tips myself for the coming season, be good to have a phone chat again sometime soon.
 

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Status update on my first year II queens (2017):

First 2 did not make it, these were done prior to any training, the rest were done after Cobey's class. I didn't expect my first dozen to survive, happy it was just the first two.

Post training stats:
Traded/Given Away:
1 traded to another beek - unsuccessful introduction, traded immediately after insemination.

1 was given to another beek - traded after 2 months of laying, died out with a large number of their apiary. Reasons unknown.

Kept:
1 injured during inspection, my fault. Was laying great prior to that. Disappeared a couple weeks after injury.
4 others as still doing well.

Laying solid patterns prior to winter!


Overall I am very happy with my 2017 success (post taking a class). Everyone I introduced began laying very well. Of the ones I kept, with the exception of the one I injured during inspection, they are all still kicking.

Advice after this experience, take Sue Cobey's class if you can.


Right now 5 out of my 18 (one from another breeder) hives are headed by II queens, I plan to raise that to 50% this year. Very happy with the II results, and the genetics lines I acquired so far. Great experience overall!
 

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Finally found a nice and water proof case. Bit spendy for what I wanted at $40, but i feel safer now with my gear.

 

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Jcase, you have done really well with the inseminating during your first season of doing it, and I know it is a really great feeling when you get your first queens inseminated successfully, also like your new case for the apparatus.
Its even better when your first successful inseminated queens are still around the next year :) Feels @#$% good.
 

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But I prefer doing the pulling by hand these days

https://www.*****ute.com/video/EFdYODcFr62c/

By hand with an ATP 3 touch burner, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vH1Uw85tSFY

By hand using a bunsen burner, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yKHvKCatmM
So simple by hand! I dont know why I didnt think of this before. I made so many pulling prototypes this winter (none great).

Well I'm darn good at making coils now lol, but I'm going to pick up an eraser and give this a try.
 

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So simple by hand! I dont know why I didnt think of this before. I made so many pulling prototypes this winter (none great).

Well I'm darn good at making coils now lol, but I'm going to pick up an eraser and give this a try.
Thanks, when you try the eraser method, try using a yellow flame instead of a hotter blue one, then you get a much better visual/warning of the very moment when the tube begins to stretch out, you will have more time to react before it drops off and or separates. Also, when you heat the tube from one side only you end up with a slightly curved and oval shaped taper on the main reduction area, which I find helps when you finally insert the tip during insemination, this slightly irregular shape lends itself in different ways as to a precise ramp, the very tip is round of course.

I have also found that sizing and finishing the very tip of the needle is done much easier and quicker by leaving the tip slightly longer than the inserted wire gauge and then flame polish back towards the desired size, this way you get a much better uniformity and or accuracy when making batches.

Just for interest, and those who have been following the main title, here is a sneak preview of my new electric manipulator head, early mechanical testing has gone really well so far.







I have retained my original glass tube/needle from my proven prototype, as it is so user freindly, especially if you use the HARBO syringe system, I was going to use a games joystick for control, but have opted for the much more precise micro switch versions instead, another couple of weeks and I should be somewhere near to completion.
 

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Thanks, when you try the eraser method, try using a yellow flame instead of a hotter blue one, then you get a much better visual of when the tube begins to stretch out and will have more time to react before it drops off and seperates.
I can't get a yellow flame out of my torch that is a point. I'm thinking of trying the erasers with the coil, the erase seems to give it a nice smooth drop, might solve my problem there.
 

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I can't get a yellow flame out of my torch that is a point. I'm thinking of trying the erasers with the coil, the erase seems to give it a nice smooth drop, might solve my problem there.
The yellow flame is what enables a smoother/slower drop as it heats a larger area/slower, than a finer pin-pointed and hotter blue flame does, if you can, try and block one of the air inlet holes on your torch and it will starve it of oxygen, like you see when I tune my torch which does this via blocking the air inlets with a tuning ring, here is my actual torch.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Ign...392584&hash=item361285636a:g:elEAAOSwax5YoeTs

But this version will also do the same job, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blazer-G...958263?hash=item3ac61e00f7:g:6UoAAOSwE0JY-FLx
 

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The yellow flame is what enables a smoother/slower drop as it heats a larger area/slower, than a finer pin-pointed and hotter blue flame does, if you can, try and block one of the air inlet holes on your torch and it will starve it of oxygen, like you see when I tune my torch which does this via blocking the air inlets with a tuning ring, here is my actual torch.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Ign...392584&hash=item361285636a:g:elEAAOSwax5YoeTs

I'll play a bit, when i get it on a yellow flame on mine, it starts to bent upwards. .... I make my prototype puller stands out of wood. Lets just say today has been stressful since waking up, and now my office smells like burning pine. I am not a smart man today.
 

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[...] just made a few more insemination tips myself for the coming season ...
Hello Pete - FWIW, I'm not really into AI/II and thus know next to Sod All about it - but just thought I'd float out an idea. If it's already been looked at and discounted, just ignore this post.

Some years ago I had a DVT and was required to self-inject with Heparin for a week or three. The syringes the Heparin came in were 1.0 ml and had a needle diameter of just 0.3 mm.
I've just checked with the Dave Cushman site, and 0.3 mm is (or at least was considered then) the upper size limit for a tip. I was wondering perhaps if syringes might come in even smaller sizes than that ?

Just a thought ...
LJ
 

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I have tried experimenting with this type of needle, that an old freind and diabetic had and if your very very careful you can reduce the tip of the needle to around .25 over a couple of millimeters, cut off the angle that they are cut at, I used an insert that fit tight inside the socket and placed it in the lathe to hone it with a very fine diamond stone, but glass needles are a lot easier to make once you get the feel for it, see video below using 1.30mm glass.

https://www.*****ute.com/video/NS28O5GW4uTs/
 

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It been a bit, did any of the 3d printed II rigs pan out?
 
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