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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tapered shims. I rip up a bunch of them from time to time to have on hand. I have pictured these before but it came up again about where, on a stacked colony to vaporize oxalic acid. Especially so if you dont want to drill holes here and there. Takes only a minute to pry up a box and slip a a pair of them in. They should be about 5/16" at the thick end.
In this picture I had blocked bottom entrance and was getting bees to reorient to an upper entrance prior to putting in a Cloake board
 

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Hi Frank - a nice job. :)

I have neither the imagination to think of wedges, nor the woodworking skill to make them, so this shim was the best I could come up with when I needed an additional entrance 'round the back' when working with a 5-frame nuc stack. (made from 25mm x 10mm battens)



'best
LJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Crofter, Do you get burr comb that makes the bottom frames come up with the top box or squishes bees (queen) when you remove the shims? Or do you not use them that long during good comb building time?
They have usually been fairly short term. If you made them only 5/16 high and being at the entrance, they might not build that much burr comb. George Imrie gave his name to the Imrie shim. I think there was mention of some burr comb but they are a larger lift on all four sides.
 

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LOL when I first read this I expected to see a pic of a cordless drill and auger bit! 😄
 
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LOL when I first read this I expected to see a pic of a cordless drill and auger bit! 😄
That was my first thought as well.

Not "instant" by any stretch, but this hive decided to chew their own upper entrance. If they survive this winter, will get a pollen trap as a reward. Wondered how to train a hive to an upper entrance...
Brown Natural material Wood Insect Hardwood
 

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Why not just slide the box to the rear 1/4 to 3/8 inch to make an opening at the front?
I appreciate that this question wasn't directed at myself - but FWIW - I wanted an entrance at the back to reduce the risk of the returning virgin entering via the front. If a box is slid as you suggest, then openings will be made at both back and front. Otherwise, it's quite a good idea. :)
'best
LJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
little_john, I think AR Beekeeper has you on a technicality! Because of the frame rest rebate, sliding the box in one direction an amount slightly less than the frame rest width, will create an opening selectively front or rear. Slide to the rear only exposes the front etc.

When I am trying to wean the bees from a rear entrance after Snelgrove is removed, I will first place the wedges to expose a side entrance for a few days till they reorient then move the wedges to shift opening to the front. Sliding the hive bodies can only create openings front or rear not side to side.
 

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Why not just slide the box to the rear 1/4 to 3/8 inch to make an opening at the front?
If you "just slide the box to the rear 1/4 to 3/8 inch" you won't get any opening, assuming the boxes are 3/4" thick wood. ;)

The box would need to be moved (1/4 to 3/8 inch) + (wood thickness) to create said opening.

The frame rest rebate / dado could effectively 'thin' the wood, so the wood thickness in the above equation would be whatever the remaining wood thickness at the top of the box is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I quibble perhaps:unsure: If the margin at the vertical of the frame rest is the nominal 3/8 of an inch, a movement of any thing greater than 3/8 would start to create an opening at one end; at the other end of the box no opening is created till the movement would exceed the total material thickness. Therefore a movement of between 3/8 and 3/4" would create a gap at one end that was ranging from 0 to 3/8 of an inch before exposing any gap at the other end.
 

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little_john, I think AR Beekeeper has you on a technicality! Because of the frame rest rebate, sliding the box in one direction an amount slightly less than the frame rest width, will create an opening selectively front or rear. Slide to the rear only exposes the front etc.
Thanks Frank - you're absolutely right. With the set-up I was using (5-frame nuc boxes - normal entrance in the long side (warm-way)) moving the boxes forwards or backwards would have meant the new opening(s) would have been generated by the box sides, not the box ends. Must pay more attention in future ... :)
LJ
 

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IF you have your frame and super dimensions standardized such that the the bottom of the frame is flush with the bottom of the super, you will have an approximate bee space between the top of the frame and the top of the super. If we assume 5/16" as a bee space, and the super is slid forward 3/8" for the rabbet and 5/16" for the bee space, we are still short of the 3/4" wood thickness. if you error by another 5/16", you may have a crack, but not a bee space yet..

Anything to prevent the need for another piece of equipment, and has been so since the 1930's. (we use deep supers also).

Crazy Roland
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
IF you have your frame and super dimensions standardized such that the the bottom of the frame is flush with the bottom of the super, you will have an approximate bee space between the top of the frame and the top of the super. If we assume 5/16" as a bee space, and the super is slid forward 3/8" for the rabbet and 5/16" for the bee space, we are still short of the 3/4" wood thickness. if you error by another 5/16", you may have a crack, but not a bee space yet..

Anything to prevent the need for another piece of equipment, and has been so since the 1930's. (we use deep supers also).

Crazy Roland
Roland, I dont see where vertical bee space comes into play in the discussion about sliding a box fore or aft to create an entrance between boxes; what am I missing?
 
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