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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have most of you gone to a round hole for the inner cover and if so is it the size of the a mason jar lid .
 

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I use a hole saw (2-7/8"?...I'll have to check the size). The size saw that I use, along with a little bit of sanding/rasping *will* allow the lid to fit down inside the hole.

I put the hole between the escape hole and the edge of the inner cover on the end opposite the entrance/vent slot in the rim. I make sure to drill the hole far enough from the escape hole and edge of the cover so that I can put two jars side-by-side if I want to.

I also screen over the top of the holes with #8 mesh and set the jars on top of the screen. The bees will seal the screen with propolis when there isn't a feed jar there. I figure they know if they want it sealed or not and it creates a good barrier against shb and wax moth. I've seen where they've also opened the sealed holes back up. By this time they are established and don't require feeding anyhow. If the bees have sealed the screen and I need to feed or want to open the vent it is simple to remove and replace.

If you use regular mason jar rings and lids (rather than 1-piece lids) you might consider putting the lid in the ring "upside down" so that the offset of the lid protrudes outwards toward the mesh...this will bring help the lid and mesh contact better and make it easier on the bees to feed through the mesh. It will work without flipping the lid, too, though. OJ Blunt down below Andalusia gave me the flipped lid tip.

You ever do anything on your extractor? I'm still pondering over them... :)

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Still looking Ed , I'm leaning towards one of the Italian made models , the 18 frame seems like way overkill for me but its only a 100.00 more than the 9 frame . Also I found a Kelly honey warmer , it looks like the same stainless tank used on a extractor but with a threaded port on the bottom for a heating element and a big paddle in the middle to stir the honey while its warming . Thought I would check with kelly and see if any of the extractor baskets would fit it , there's a pulley on top of the paddle shaft and I have motors laying around but there not variable speed ,if they don't have a basket I don't think it would take much to make one the only problem is he wants 200.00 for it but if it will fit 8 or 9 frames it might be worth it .Any suggestions .
 

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Not sure what to say about the warming tank. Look at the cost of it and what you would have to add to it, along with your time and effort, etc., and see how close the total cost comes to that of the 9-frame SAF. I've decided the new motor is probably as good as the old motor so I'm not going to let that issue bug me anymore. To be honest, I haven't been studying over it too much lately, though hopefully I'll come to a conclusion by this fall when I can get free delivery to our state beekeeper meeting (unless, of couse, I go with a MannLake one which would qualify for free shipping).

Ed
 

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Thanks Scpossum...I just checked an old post of mine and I concur with them being 70mm or 2-3/4". If you Wobble the saw a little and sand the inside of the hole the lid can go down into the hole. What I do, though, is simply staple the screen over the top surface of the inner board. I have ran into some old mason jars being just a touch to tall to fit. New Balls and Golden Harvest jars fit fine as do most of the old jars. Using the screen I also like to "see" the contact so I know there isn't a gap between lid surface and screen...if not using metal screening then that isn't an issue.

Ed
 

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Intheswamp....Please check me on this, but, I believe the Mason Jar when fitted with a cap is 72mm. The jar itself is 70mm, but when you add the top you need a minimum 72mm hole.

If you use a 2 3/4 hole saw ( and I do ), you will need to ream or sand just a little to allow the jar cap to fit inside the hole. I drill all of mine on a drill press, and after cutting the holes, I install a small sanding drum in the drill press, and sand the hole just a little to allow a good fit.

You can order a 72 mm hole saw, but, the cheapest I have found is around $45.00. Doesn't take much time to sand a little with the drum sander in the drill press.

cchoganjr
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tried inverting the lid on the mason jar to get it closer to the screen and it seemed like it wanted to drip constantly , maybe its not getting a good seal , in this way the rubber seal is going against the lid ring and not the bottle , looks like it could make quite a mess .
 

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Sounds like you are using the two piece type lid. If so, discard that lid and get the solid type lid. I would expect the two piece lid to leak due to a bad seal.

cchoganjr
 

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I also had bad experience with leaking syrup quicker than bee demand if the lid holes touched the screen so I dont try to feed through a screen. Hole size 2 7/8"; at least that what it states. Never measured it but it fits the jars.

I think there is a fair bit of variation in hole sizes cut with different brands having the same "nominal" size.
 

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Laketrout...
I just purchased the 18 frame Italian job. I pondered over this for quite a while. While I understand the attributes of the Maxant, the one in the same price range that is advertised as a 9 frame appears to really be a 6 frame radial although the other 3 frames are tangental. I believe if Maxant had a true 9 frame radial I would have gone that route. As I hope the number of hives I have will grow thru the years, I wanted a larger capacity. As you mentioned, the Italian 9 frame is $100 cheaper than the 18 frame, I spent the extra $100. Now I can spin 3 frames up to 18, all radially, any size.
Now...how do I like it? Can't say yet. I drove the hour to pick it up a few days ago, and set it up yesterday. I have only run it without frames. My impression so far? The overall quality appears good. Although it has 2 access doors, you can only open 1 as the motor is in the way of the other. The motor is noisy...not what I expected from a "German" motor, but the speed / direction control works well. Since I've never seen replacement parts in their catalog, I asked about their availability. They stock most and are able to get anything relatively quickly.
The flow is over here and I'll be extracting soon. Hopefully the machine will work well while spinning a full load. I'll post an update when I put it thru the real test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm surprised to Maxant doesn't have a few more models to choose from as extractors are a big part of there product line I would think , they jump from a 6 frame radial to 20 frame ,no true radial 9 frame or 12 frame in there line up . Did you go through Brushy .
 

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Intheswamp....Please check me on this, but, I believe the Mason Jar when fitted with a cap is 72mm. The jar itself is 70mm, but when you add the top you need a minimum 72mm hole.
I'll take your word on that Mr. Cleo. My lids measure 70mm but I'll have to look and see what my saw is...pretty sure it's a 2-3/4", but my jars don't go down into the hole but instead sit on top of the #8 mesh.

Ed
 

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Intheswamp... What keeps them from turning over. Do you put another hive body around the jar.

Mine fit so tightly that I have to rock them just a little to get them out of the hole, but, I have never had one come out, and never had a varmit pull one loose.

cchoganjr
 

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I'm surprised to Maxant doesn't have a few more models to choose from as extractors are a big part of there product line I would think , they jump from a 6 frame radial to 20 frame ,no true radial 9 frame or 12 frame in there line up . Did you go through Brushy .
Yes...I drove there to pick it up. I guess Maxant figures by the time you decap 12 or 18 frames manually (as opposed to a machine) your extractor will be sitting idle, so a smaller extractor will be more efficient. But I would rather have a 9 frame true radial that takes all sizes of frames than a 9 frame hybrid. And as far as the 18 frame is concerned, I don't have to extract 18 at a time, but if I have an extra set of hands for help in decapping, 18 frames at a time would sure speed things up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Let me know how things go when you get rolling , and how it works with small loads , I'm still looking , nothing used anywhere.
 

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What's the deciding factor trout? Do the other brands offer lifetime warranties on their extractors like we do?
We are giving away a free on on our facebook page this month!
 
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