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Discussion Starter #1
Just a collection on beekeeping with Warré or Gatineau hive (basicly a Warré hive with frames).

Brood extends into the upper brood box.


Capped brood, open brood, pollen, open honey in the corners. Just like it has to be.


Open brood with eggs, and larvae swimming in their liquid food.


There is more food left in the outer combs of the broodnest.


Pictures without and with bees.


 

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Discussion Starter #2


Honey already is abundant, the honeycomb of the first honey supers are full.




Wonderful to look at this location is a carpet of ground ivy. The carpet is almost an acre in size. (Is an industrial wasteland.)


 

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Timed to the nectar flow that starts right now, the ideal setup of a Gatineau hive is reached: the upper brood box is filled with capped brood, the lower brood box is filled with young larvae and eggs. There are one comb of pollen and one comb of nectar per box, too. Makes 12 Gatineau frames worth of brood. Equals 6 Jumbo Dadant frames full of brood.


The division of capped and open brood between the boxes is pretty much typical for a Gatineau hive. (Warré hive, too.) In one to two weeks, you find the brood distributed the other way round. Open brood in the upper box, capped brood in the lower box. That rotates now during the season (as long as you keep supering! So the broodnest doesn't fill with nectar.)

Some fresh pollen and nectar on each of the broodcombs is alright.




You feel the heat of the hive, when you put your hands onto the inner cover, the bees are in a nectar fever. And there is a lot of nectar out there right now!

Bernhard
 

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Bernhard,

Thanks for taking the time to post, you always provide valuable information and awesome pics! :thumbsup:
 

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Re: lifting Warre boxes. Get a small box stand, or use a flat roof. The roof is more convenient. Remove the roof placing top down or set stand down by hive and put quilt on it kitty corner. Place boxes the same, 1 at a time. Add your box on the floor. Reverse the dis-assembly. No lifts are needed. Be sure to place the boxes the same way they were on the hive. It seems to offend the bees to turn boxes 180 degrees. They are easy to lift 1 at a time. Use a wire hook tool to separate corner comb from box. Warre hives are easy to work, if done properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hives are full of bees, top to bottom.


Working till dusk. It is 15 degrees Celsius. A very nice temperature to work. I love those warm Spring nights.


Honey flow has set in and it is a strong flow. :thumbsup:
 

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@ Bernhard, Very nice hives! They show the excellent brood laying pattern common with a properly set up Warre hive. My hives do the same. More thought went into them than most folks realise.
I do not know what a Gatineau hive is. Would you care to explain the differences?
I make standard Warre hives, to the original dimensions. With a few helpful improvements. If this mobile would attach a photo I'd put one in. Just to look at, they are pretty basic. But really this post is curiosity as to what is a Gatineau hive. I appreciate your posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It is a Warré hive with frames and a different lid. That's it. Needed a different roof when I started migrating. Also frames were necessary to work more hives in less time. Strictly spoken it is not a Warré hive, but that's only for the nitpickers. For me the dimensions are the key element.

Marc Gatineau was a French professional beekeeper who modified the original Warré hive to his needs. He had only this hive type and made a living from it for thirtyfive years.
 

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Thank you Bernhard. That is interesting. My modifications that I mentioned in the hives I make are; A flat roof and a feeder deck built into the quilt. It's simply a jar feeder. I use folding frames if i do a cut-out. But otherwise I use topbars. The roof is a great stand for the boxes, placed top down. And in a windy area( like here ) a weight is easily added to the top.
I think I'm halfway to a Gatineau hive with these things now. Thank you for your great posts! And for the good info. It seems people using Warre hives see the worth of those simple modification after a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You don't need any weight on top of the lid. If you are using a telescoping cover, use one that reaches down 4 inches/10 cm over the topbox. A lid with that height doesn't come off even in storms. I don't have any weight on any of my hives. And we have high winds here, too. (No tornados, but that would require a 4 gallon bucket of water anyway. :shhhh:)
 

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Whole hives can be blown over here. It's not just the cover. I live in a high altitude prarie area. 40 - 50 mph wind is not uncommon on a sunny day here in spring. Most places are not so bad. But... you cope with what you have. Empty sets especially need to be weighted down. It was a constant 35 mph today. The bees fly anyway. I realise that is not common in most places. It's good to have the" big brick" option. Its a custom hive part.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Next stop: a forest full of sweet chestnuts. This year extra-long blossom sprouts = means a lot of honey. The other hives go into the lime tree flow.









 

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Discussion Starter #20
Also found a field of Triticale (see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triticale) that the farmer didn't spray and see what is the outcome: tons of cornflowers!















Already throw some hives at it and the bees took on the cornflowers immediately. Cornflowers make a real nice and tasty honey, and has lots of nectar, blossoming for a very long time. That was good luck, but the beekeeper who keeps on searching for some nectar sources will find some. As a beekeeper you're a scoutbee for sure.

 
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