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I'm standardizing with 10 frames in a 10 frame box. I decided its just too complicated having both 9 and 10. you got to draw out new foundation with 10 frame boxes so I'm just going to all 10. I never had a problem uncapping 10 framers because I got a super flexible knife. Anyone else only run 10 frame honey supers?
 

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I run mostly 8 frames in 8-frame boxes and havn't extracted honey, yet, so I can't answer your question, but . . .

Please tell us about your flexible knife . . .
 

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If you have some kind of flexible uncapping knife go for it, otherwise using 10 frames instead of 8 or 9 makes it too difficult to uncap imo. What's so hard about pulling out a frame once they they get all the frames mostly drawn?
 

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I have always used a thin blade vegetable cutting knife and was able to get the heel below the top bar to uncap short comb. It just took a little more patience. Now I was given a heated uncapping knife and haven't had a chance to use it.
 

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....using 10 frames instead of 8 or 9 makes it too difficult to uncap imo. What's so hard about pulling out a frame once they they get all the frames mostly drawn?

I agree, 8 or 9 frames in a 10 frame super are a snap to uncap... lots of folk talk about 8 frame hives as a better hive. Well for me, a 10 frame super with 8 drawn frames filled with honey, is 8 frame hive!
 

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It's not that hard, I run 10 frames in new supers and then after the first extraction only put 9 back in. Normally once I'm finished extracting I will have 8-9 extra supers made up from taking one frame out of all the new boxes. 9 frames in a 10 frame box is much easier to uncap.
 

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10 frames will work. However the more hives you have the more of your precious time it takes up. 9 frames will not only make uncapping easier, removing the bees from the supers will be easier as well. As far as 8 framers being better hives. Lol. Two less frames gives the appearance that the bees are making "more" honey, or in terms of the brood box makes it
Look as though there are more bees covering the frames. Pros and cons to everything. I only suggest using all the same equipment. The more standardized you are the easier it is.
 

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If you spend a lot of time using a hot knife you'll figure out how to get down in those valleys. Either using the tip or the heel, when the blade doesn't reach the caps.
 

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When drawing comb I shave the frames and draw them 11 per box and no spacing is required. I pull one out as frames are partially drawn until I am only running 8 per ten frame box. Not much spacing is required then either.
 

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I started using one of the spacing tools this year, and I really like the results. I got several boxes of foundation drawn out, and once they had the center frames completely started in full boxes 1 pulled one from each and made up "extra" boxes of new honey frames with them. I've never used the spacers, but the spacer tool I do like so far.
 

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I'm not sure why you don't want 9-frames of fat drawn out comb full of honey. 10-frames in my opinion won't have or hold as much honey as 9 frames fully drawn and filled will..
 

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Not all beeks are commercial, trying to optimize their operation. Not a beeks are hobbyist, trying to just get a little honey. Whatever works for you and your girls is what you should do.
 

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I'm standardizing with 10 frames in a 10 frame box. I decided its just too complicated having both 9 and 10. you got to draw out new foundation with 10 frame boxes so I'm just going to all 10. I never had a problem uncapping 10 framers because I got a super flexible knife. Anyone else only run 10 frame honey supers?
I use 10 frame honey supers. I use a standard electric de-capping knife with out much problems. I use a capping scraper for the thin parts of the frame of honey that the knife misses. And for the most part my frames are pretty full and relatively easy to uncap.

Good Luck.

DD
 
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