Some one turnrd the apidictor into an iPhone app a few years ago. You can read up on the principles in Beesource's archives and program it if that makes your skirt fly up.
I considered it for scaling up and computerizing an entire commercial drop of hives, but watching and keeping a calendar works better - just stay ahead of the supering and do it correctly. The sequence is in Ormond and Harry Aebi's book, also in Eugene Killion's book, Honey In the Comb.
Basically, you add a super whenever they get within 2 frames of full, so when you have 8 frames iat about 85% full n 10-frame equipment or 6 frames at 85% in 8-frame equipment, its time to add a super. Your area and the rainfall will determine how many days that is.
The first super goes above the brood box. The second super goes between the first and the brood box. The third super goes in between the first and the second supers. The fourth super goes between the first and the third. The fifth super goes right above the brood box and replaces the second, which now goes to the top of the stack. The sixth goes above #5. The seventh goes between #6 and #5.
This sequence properly timed, has prevented colonies with 120,000 to perhaps 150,000 bees from swarming and has packed as high as 404 pounds of honey on a single beehive. That's some pretty darn good beekeeping!
If you get in the habit of using a scale, this is the time to learn what the weights are telling you. Time to add a super and time to move on to the next nectar / pollen flow, who needs a boost frame and who can donate that frame of capped brood and, when the weights go down a bit in July (for Southern California), time to extract honey. After a few years, it all starts to make sense, and lo and behold, you've gone from person with a bee suit to beekeeper.
