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I have a bunch of ants that keep trying to get into my newly established bee hive. What is the safest way to rid my hive and ground of these creatures. Will they effect the bees?
 

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Try putting some cinnamon down. Around the base of the hive first. You'll need to reapply after rain. I had a really bad ant problem in between my hive top covers. I put some down and they went away.

Buy in bulk from a local discount store. You're trying to get rid of ants not bake scones for the county fair:p
 

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Terro ant traps should work, some folks go with a mix of Borax detergent and sugar. Bottom line is im new and used the search function to find out what to do...You can to!:thumbsup:
 

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Terro ant traps should work, some folks go with a mix of Borax detergent and sugar. Bottom line is im new and used the search function to find out what to do...You can to!:thumbsup:
Or he could just post the question and get some interaction on a social forum...and perhaps some updated methods:thumbsup:
 

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You can put ant-guards on your hive stand... they are basically just an oil trap that prevents the ants from crawling up to the hive.
 

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Yes, they can affect the bees. The more aggressive the ant the worse it can be.

Here in TX, I have fire ants. I have seen them take down a strong hive in under 7 days. :eek:

1. Make sure there is no vegetation near the hive that the ants can march up and access the hive stand with.

2. Cinnamon is a good deterrent for what we call "sugar ants" down here. It is also great inside, as it's non toxic. It does not do anything to fire ants, alas.

3. A barrier of some sort on the legs of the hive stands is best. I have tried water, oil, and tanglefoot to no avail. The fire ants just marched on the backs of their dead bretheren to get to the hive. I use trays filled with ant granules under the legs.

4. Think physical, not a spray.

Good luck!
Summer
 

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You can mix up soapy water, like kids blow bubbles with, and pour it on the mound. The soap will bubble over the ant's breathing holes, and suffocate them. Boiling water will do the trick too.
 

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There is an organic ant spray that is safe for pets and humans that Target and WalMart are starting to carry. Its mostly a bunch of EO's with the main being orange oil I believe. The ants (including Texas fire ants) wont cross it for about a week or more after spraying it. You can also go to a plant nursery and they usually have an organic ant killer thats based on orange oil and other EO's that is much cheaper and in a bulk bottle.

If this is sprayed directly on the bees I believe it will kill them, but I just coat the legs of the stand with it and the bees don't go near it. It also works as a barrier for your house.
 

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Beautiful wood on your beehive Michael! I'm a new beekeeper in Saratoga-was pleasantly surprised to see someone close by on this forum. I have a Warre hive and while waiting for the diatomaceous earth (food grade, coming from Tennessee by mail order. Stupid new beekeeper me-who knew you could buy the stuff at a local feed store??!!) to keep the ants out, they marched two by two and then some into my hive.My "pro" friends, none of whom have a Warre, told me not to worry-that the bees would take care of the ants.Well, it was the other way around-the ants ate the bees and the honey.Then my bees swarmed!
Fortunately I had a clean brood box and rescued them, rebuilt my hive stand a la Michael's picture with the tuna cans, put cinnamon everwhere, along with the DE and am hoping and praying it will work. But my population has been cut to about 25% of the original number of bees, and I'm wondering if they'll make it. I'm here in sunny Cali, where there's forage year round. Is there anything else I can do to help my poor bees? Laura
 

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kill em , collect them, and roast over open fire, grind them up in a mortar and pedestal, sprinkle the dust in the hive and around the hive. Biodynamic method...
 

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Another post told me to put a 2:1 sugar (1 cu water) with a tsp of borax. I took a few water and soda bottles and put some 1/8” holes in them with my drill and put a little in each one. Within the week the ants were gone so I did it in my raspberries, strawberries and blueberries. Some of the jars were full of dead ants so maybe it got too strong with the heat? I was eating berries out of the garden last night and even the over ripe ones did not have ants so I killed out most of them with the cost of the bottle deposits!
 

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I know that this sounds simplistic but just try it, you might be surprised. It will NOT work with fire ants. The reason the ant nests are in between your outer covers and inner covers is because the moisture is trapped there. Simply raise the front of the the outer cover so that it rests on the edge of the front of your inner cover and the problem resolves itself. You might also push back your inner cover from the front edge of your top hive body (upper entrance). Works for me here in Massachusetts. Keep it simple. OMTCW
 

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Minz has the answer! Worked for me! The ants are more attracted to the bait bottles than the defended hive, works like a charm.
 

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I use Diatomaceous earth around the hive stand supports, works for me!
 

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Dear Cedar Hill, great advice but alas! Silly me-I forgot to mention that I have a Warre hive so it doesn't have an inner and outer cover. Turns out the windy weird weather we've been having has blown leaves into my oil moats and they were going across the "bridges". I need to raise my hive up more-not sure how to do that without taking it totally apart. I'm making the poison water bottle thing Minz suggested, so hopefully that will work. I'm so grateful for everybody's advice! Laura
 

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Being in Houston we have a big issue with fire ants. After reading a lot here I built a 2X4 frame for 2 hives, Lang. 10 frame, with a 2' work table in between with 1/2" pipe legs. I put the legs in vitamin water bottles, bottom cut out, with 2" of veg. oil, above them I put plastic glass with silicone to hold in place as a rain shield. I also put the whole stand on top of garden/weed cloth to keep growth down and every couple of weeks sprinkle Diatomaceous earth around the edge. As a concept improvement I will replace the plastic cups with pot pie tins that sit on top of heater hose clamps which will make it easier to re-fill the oil. Mineral oil would also be good. On the pipe bottoms I left the orange plastic thread protectors on so the pipe would not cut the vitamin water bottle lids and to drain just unscrew the bottle and let the oil run out and re-screw the bottle back to the lid, no hive/stand lifting needed.
So far this has worked for me, but I got all the data from this fantastic site. Good luck.
 

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julysun
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Location
Baytown, TX., USA.
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Re: I need advice on how to kill Ants around my bee hive
Minz has the answer! Worked for me! The ants are more attracted to the bait bottles than the defended hive, works like a charm.
Reply Reply With Quote :applause::applause::applause:
 
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