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5 ,8 ,10 frame, and long Lang
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Sure they will.
They do for me all the time.
:)

The real question is - do you prefer the Lazutin style or the modified Layens style.
Choose one and proceed.
so a 90 degree frame will be used? I was understanding they tear out the walls and rebuild it to the 15 degree angle, hmmm good to know

GG
 

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Discussion Starter #42
so a 90 degree frame will be used? I was understanding they tear out the walls and rebuild it to the 15 degree angle, hmmm good to know
Sure it may.
This is what I have been saying for years now, GG. :)

But the more correct answer is - it depends.
They may rebuild OR they may re-use just as is - may happen either way for reasons unknown.
 

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thinking of starting to experiment with the extra deep frames something like this (joined with zips.. ). Three stacked medium boxes would accept it. Would be interested to see how much of the depth they actually use in my setting.
62200
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Would be interested to see how much of the depth they actually use in my setting.
Pretty much the 10-20% of the foundation at the very bottom will go unused.
This is consistent with a medium bottom box usage - bees normally use it to "hang out" (and not much else) when they have plenty of space otherwise.

You want be sure to use follower boards and keep them tight that way (you don't want to give them too many frames at once).
If kept tight, they will go down as low as they consider "normal".
If kept too open, they will stick close to the top bars and will not go down too much.
 

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You guys beat me to it. I've been brainstorming on how to modify the traps to mount them upright. Not as easy as it looks, but definitely doable. The bottoms are quite thin and would not support the weight. I'll have to add crossbracing to hang that way and change the roof configuration. Also, they are med frames in deep boxes, so could end up with some misc comb hanging in the open space.
I do think it would be better to just have them start drawing in the same direction/plane that they will ultimately be transferred to.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
they are med frames in deep boxes,
Well, just use the deep frames then in your traps.
There is absolutely nothing that prevents you from putting those into your modified Layens either.
Yes, they will be a little loose and temporary, but then what?
Most problems are artificial and human-imagined only - as if you miss a millimeter there or here, your bees will die. :)

Here is just one Lang deep frame (of many) that I use directly from a trap into a hive (and they end up there forever).
 

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GregV, you forget I don't own any deep frames. I can shave down the deep boxes if necessary. But, I'm hoping that with a bunch of empty medium frames with guides(popsicle sticks) and a frame of drawn comb in between, they'll build their comb in the frames. I will replace the current covers with a proper sidewall and screw it in place to hold the frames steady.
 

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So back to your ventilation. For winter, with the insulated follower boards and the already insulated long walls, you create an insulated box within the larger box as you say. Covering the top of the frames with a moisture absorbing mat eliminates any draft thru the cavity in which the bees overwinter. The hole in the bottom board appears to be at the opposite end of the box as the main entrance(lower side holes) and other vent holes. I assume the hole in the bottom board is screened? Is this correct?
What is the approximate diameter of the bottom board vent hole?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
The hole in the bottom board appears to be at the opposite end of the box as the main entrance(lower side holes) and other vent holes. I assume the hole in the bottom board is screened? Is this correct?
The bottom vents are certainly screened from the bees and varmints. That's given.

FYI, what I drew was a single colony unit.
The large hives have entrances on both corners and a central vent.
Pretty much I am not sure the vent is even needed.
I had vents just taped over in one of the long hives since about two years ago and still have them taped.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Are the bottom vent holes your "goto" 1/2" ? Are there multiple holes?
I have all kinds.
1/2" x 4 inch slots.
1" round holes.
A row of 1/2" holes.
One vent, two vents, 3 vents.
No vents too.
You name it.
------------------------
Does not matter as long as accidental bulk water drains somehow.
Like I have been saying - having ~2 inch under frame space takes care of everything (AND your frame is already tall). All this ventilation concerns are an issue for Lang operators.
:)

I even have just a slotted bottom where each plank is separated by a penny width.
Like so (for my CVH).
Slightly afraid mice might chew through this one - no metal screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
@GregV which entrance holes do your bees prefer, lower or upper, on the Layens or modified Layens
They prefer top entrances hands down - end of story.
There could be some variation, but the top holes always have solid usage.

If you have entrance setup like pictured below AND you have the top holes opened, expect the bees fighting for the small upper hole, while the larger bottom hole will be half-used.

And so - in summer I plug up the upper most hole(s) as counter-productive.
The top holes are only essential in winter/early spring for ventilation and for actual entry in cold conditions (bottom entry is too cold).

One more essential reason to have the upper hole(s) plugged/tapped in summer - honey and brood orientation on the large frames (this is specifically the large frame feature).

The bottom entrance pulls the brood down and by fall you'd have good brood/honey allocation on the frame - brood on the bottom/honey band above it.
With the top hole(s), you'd have not an optimal picture - brood up front and too high/honey on the back.
 

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