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How to deal with odd-size box?

1.6K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  johng  
#1 ·
When I was starting out my neighbor donated his long-empty hive: two semi-deeps (7 5/8") complete with frames. At the time I was glad to get free equipment, so I ran it through an autoclave to sterilize then used the boxes as upper brood chambers on two hives last year.

Fast forward to now, and both of those hives are booming, with the brood nest split between both boxes and plenty of honey still in the top. My swarm-control options are limited as I don't have any extra frames of that size, so I can't open the brood nest, pull out a nuc, etc. I'm now realizing why so many experienced beekeepers recommend standardized equipment...

My options, as I see them, are to:

1. Limit manipulations to the bottom box.
2. Buy some 7 1/4" frames. I see Western Bee carries them at a great price, but not so great once shipping is figured in.
3. Move all the frames into a deep. This will open a 2" vertical gap in the brood nest, which the bees will presumably fill with comb drawn downward from the bottom bars. I'm guessing this manipulation alone, while stressful for the bees, might prevent swarming. Frames can then be replaced one-at-a-time by deeps until I have a deep box full of deep frames.

Any recommendations? My ultimate goal is to have all hives in double deeps, with the semi-deeps used as extra honey supers.

Mark
 
#2 ·
Hmm, seem like for a start you could split the double 7 14" hive into two hives, and add a deep to each split. Once you get brood in the deep, make sure the queen is in the deep, then add an excluder between the boxes. No need to buy more 7 1/4" equipment. Of course, you would need to buy queens, or let them make their own if you make sure there are eggs in the split.
:D
 
#5 ·
I hadn't thought of that one. I don't have any extra deeps of drawn comb, so it would be a box with foundation. My question would be whether enough nurse bees will stay with the brood in the isolated upper box or whether brood will be abandoned there.
 
#6 ·
My options, as I see them, are to:

3. Move all the frames into a deep. This will open a 2" vertical gap in the brood nest, which the bees will presumably fill with comb drawn downward from the bottom bars. I'm guessing this manipulation alone, while stressful for the bees, might prevent swarming. Frames can then be replaced one-at-a-time by deeps until I have a deep box full of deep frames.
There have been several occasions where I put a medium frame into a deep box. Never had a problem doing this. The bees simply pulled comb from the bottom of the frame. In my experience doing this, they never attached the comb to the bottom board.

HTH,
Shane
 
#7 ·
You could also split the two hives move the 7 5/8 box to the split. They will now be on the bottom. Add deeps on top of the hives as needed the rest of the year. This will give you two double deeps and two hives that are 7 5/8 plus a deep on top that should be a big enough brood nest. With the 7 5/8s box on the bottom you should not have to manipulate many frames down there. Atleast that way you will still get some use out of the boxes and frames.

Or you could do as someone else mentioned and place a deep under the current deep, move the 7 5/8s box above an excluder let the bees hatch out and as they do they will start storing honey in it. The bees should expand the broodnest down into the empty deep and once you harvest your honey the 7 5/8s boxes will be empty for you to do with as you see fit. Placing an upper entrance above the excluder will give the drones away out and keep them from clogging up the excluder.