[Rader Sidetrack]

Unless you are shaving down frames to 1 1/4" wide, the best course of action in your case would be to put in 8 frames and have them all pushed together, and the group centered in the box.

Just because 9 brand new undrawn frames may physically fit is not a good reason to do that. You will appreciate a little space to pull frames once they are drawn out. The linked thread is about 5 frame nucs, not 8 frame boxes, but highlights some similar issues:
http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?249339-Brushy-Mountain-Nuc-Box-Dimensions!

 

[Moots]

Yes, I know, simple answer is eight. I'm using 8 frame mediums for the first time, and I notice 9 frames, with only new foundation, fit quite nicely; using only eight frames leaves a rather large gap. I'm sending these to a local beekeeper who will be making nucs for me. Should I go ahead and put 9 frames in, and reduce the number of frames to 8 after they are drawn out? Or should I just use eight and space them out a bit?

Where did you get your boxes?

Simply put, an eight frame box shouldn't hold more than 8 standard width frames....Of course, some folks will shave down their frames to allow 9 frames in an 8 frame box, or 11 in a 10 frame box. I run 8 frame mediums, and yes, you are correct, there is a fair amount of extra space left when 8 frames are inserted. That's just the standard, however, I repeat, 9 standard frames should not fit if your boxes follow any of the common 8 frame standard dimensions.

I would say either run 9, or run 8 and put them tight in the center...but you DO NOT want to space out your frames before they are drawn out, and then only space them out if you are using them in honey supers, subscribing to the thicker comb, same amount of honey in fewer frames strategy....Which personally I don't, but a lot of folks do!

Some folks, mostly commercial guys I think will run 9 frames in a 10 frame brood box, I think the thought process is anything from it helps with ventilation to more room to work the frames without possibly harming the queen. This is another one I don't do.

I subscribe to the KISS principal.....All 8 frame mediums and 8 frames in all my boxes, brood and honey supers! All tightly positioned in the center of the box. But there are a lot of different theories and approaches.

Good Luck!

 

[gone2seed]

I have 8 frame boxes from several different sources and they are ALL oversize for 8 frames.Makes you wonder who the original doofus was that came up with the size.Anyway,my work around is to use 8 full frames and one extra top bar with a starter strip.Top bar w/starter strip on the outside position of course.Then,when the frames are well started remove the top bar and add end bars and bottom bar and use elsewhere.One added benefit is that I sometimes get some nice comb for chunk honey from these top bars.

 

[Joseph Clemens]

I trim purchased frame End Bars to 1-1/4" width, and those I make myself are cut 1-1/4" wide (with parallel sides - 1-1/4" wide from top to bottom). I even trim 1/16" from each side of the End Bars of Mann Lake PF120 plastic frames (using a sixty toothed carbide combination blade in my table saw). Those have narrow enough Top Bars that there is still a suitable bee space. Commercial wooden frames whose End Bars have been narrowed, will benefit if the same amount is trimmed from the sides of their Top Bars as well.

Nine of these narrower frames will comfortably fit into an 8-frame super, or eleven in a 10-frame super.

 

[JakeDatc]

i used the beesource plans and have space for 9 1 1/4 and 8 normal sized. per Michael bush's suggestion i'm going to do 9 in the bottom 2 boxes and 8 above that. you figure after they propolis up the frame rest and edges there will be less wiggle room. plus it gives you a spot to shuffle for easier frame removal

 

[Tyson Kaiser]

I buy 8 frame boxes from a local supplier that are on the wide side, 14" rather than the standard 13 3/4". It makes enough a difference that I put in 8 frames and get a nice gap on the sides which I've grown to appreciate. Getting the first frame out during inspections is a snap and there is no chance of rolling bees when pulling frames, even when they are pretty full.

I keep all 8 frames together centered in the box.

 

[homesteader824]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll go with 8 centered in the box. I don't want to give them too much space between frames; I've seen them build on top of the foundation instead of drawing it out when they have that extra space.

The frames and boxes are from Mann Lake, so it should have all been made to go together. I didn't measure the frames, but I think the boxes are an even 14 inches wide.

 

[philip.devos]

If you are talking about a brood box I would put 9 frames in. I have a non-standard box that holds 7 frames. Last year I shaved the frames to 1-1/4 inch and put in 8 in the brood box, abut half foundationless. It was not long until this new package finished drawing out the frames and three frames full of brood.

 

[Acebird]

I'm using 8 frame mediums for the first time, and I notice 9 frames, with only new foundation, fit quite nicely; using only eight frames leaves a rather large gap.

Which is extremely helpful for getting that first frame unstuck and out without rolling bees. Do not space the frames out. In the brood chamber it is said that there is an advantage for shaving the frame width down to make the space smaller. If you don't do all your frames that way then it would be good to mark them as brood frames so you don't mix them up.

 

[JRG13]

Pack 9 frames in as tightly as you can.... If you have to hammer it in, the better. After they're drawn out and covered in bees, have fun trying to get one out.... Let me guess, Mann Lake boxes? I tend to agree with loving that extra space to pull a frame out without rolling half the bees on it.