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How far apart to place split?

2296 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Eikel, 
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I will be attempting my first split right after I take off my honey supers. Should I put them a distance apart? They are in my back yard, so I really only have maybe 100 feet to work with.
Thanks!
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When you do your split it really doesn't matter how far apart you put the split. All of the field force will go back into the main hive. So you have two choices in the matter. 1. Do you want to put the queen in the main hive or the split, and 2. Do you want to give the field force to the main hive or the split.

The position of the main hive is where all of the field force will return to. So if you want the split to have the field force you would want to make sure that the queen is located in the one that you move.
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I recently did a cut-down (50/50) split of a large colony and placed them side by side (touching actually). The field force sort of divided themselves up between the two, more or less evenly. If that is what you want, then it might work the same for you. I just did another split (off the queen-right part of the first split) and I deliberately moved the queen in her new nuc about four feet away because I did this split to weaken her out of swarm mode so I'd like for her to be (temporarily at least) feeling a bit under-staffed.

I have read all kinds of instructions regarding placement after splitting. I think it depends on the purpose of the split and the strength and size of the resulting parts.

If you do create (as I have) a smaller, weaker colony which remains close to stronger ones - particularly after the flow, or in a dearth - then you should consider anti-robbing protection of the smaller one right from the start, I believe.

Enj.
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I have found that placing the hives (split and main hive) side by side (almost touching or actually touching) many bees will go to either hive ... and not necessarily return to the main hive.

What are attempting to do? A walkaway split? Which hive do you want to raise a new queen? A split with a new queen in the split?

Depending upon what you're doing is how you (I) split....
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snl said:
I have found that placing the hives (split and main hive) side by side (almost touching it not actually touching) many bees will go to either hive ... and not necessarily return to the main hive.

What are attempting to do? A walkaway split? Which hive do you want to raise a new queen? A split with a new queen in the split?

Depending upon what you're doing is how you (I) split....
Click to expand...
I have a very simple goal: make one hive into two hives. Sounds simple? but I know there are a few options.
My plan is to move a few frames( if I can identify ones with new eggs) to new hive and start as a nuc, and hope for the best.
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NewBeeLady said:
I have a very simple goal: make one hive into two hives.
My plan is to move a few frames( if I can identify ones with new eggs) to new hive and start as a nuc, and hope for the best.
Click to expand...
Why not try this? From the old hive, take the frame the queen is on (of course taking her along with it), take a frame of brood and a frame of honey or honey and pollen mix. Shake some nurse bees in the new nuc and add some drawn comb (if you have it) if not ....foundation and place it right beside the the main hive. The main hive will know it's queenless and start to raise a new queen (make sure you have left a frame with eggs in the old hive). Now, no matter what hive the field bees return to, they'll be accepted.
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Beware of the potential for robbing, either just the syrup or their weaker hive's stores. I did two 60/40 splits and adding queen cells to the 40 portion over the weekend. Had to use boardman type feeders and ran into a robbing situation; moved the smaller boxes 100 feet away and added robbing protection.
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