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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for some ways to improve my honey handling. I store my honey in 5 gallon buckets. Of course it granulates. I have typically put them in a old chest freezer with a light bulb to heat it to liquify it. Then I poor it in my Walter T. Kelly grocers tank. The problem I am having is the honey darkens. Am I heating it too long? Or too hot?
What temp do you do this work at?
Thanks
Mike
 

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Too hot. My old freezer is equipped with a thermostatically controlled power strip to plug in a fixture with a 100 watt bulb. I set it at 103F and in about three days your bucket should pour.
 

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I have a old wash tub (metal) that i can set on my stove, fill with several inches of water and set the bucket in it. Set on simmer and stir every half hour. mine was melted in about 2 hrs.
 

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I have a old wash tub (metal) that i can set on my stove, fill with several inches of water and set the bucket in it. Set on simmer and stir every half hour. mine was melted in about 2 hrs.
Schmism, that is pretty fast. Does it darken the honey?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Too hot. My old freezer is equipped with a thermostatically controlled power strip to plug in a fixture with a 100 watt bulb. I set it at 103F and in about three days your bucket should pour.
Vance, yes I am doing it too high of temp, I need to get a thermostatically controlled power strip.
Thanks
Mike
 

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I built one like psm1212 but with a front door instead of opening on top. I use a temp controller from honey run.
 

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I use a light bulb at the bottom of a stack of supers with a lid. Temp control is easy with a thermostat controlled outlet. I use one that is for controlling the temperature of seedling heat mats. They are about 15 bucks, and have a little probe you can hang in the box or even put in the honey. Narrow programmable range of something like 85-115f, which is perfect for honey.
 

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From what is said here & elsewhere, the less time it takes to warm & cool honey, the less any damage occurs. A thermostatically controlled box, with ~150 watts of HEAT ( from incandescent bulbs) "does the job" on a 5 Gal bucket in about 24-36 hours. CF & LED bulbs give off less heat actual heat, so more are required. Once the heat reaches whatever desired temp, rapidly "cooling" it (back to ~95*) does little damage (darkening), yet allows plenty of "flow" for re-bottling.
 

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I had planned on making one. When I found myself needing one right away I had to improvise; One 100w light bulb with plug, placed in an empty deep with two top bars (just the top bar from frames), place them in position 3 and 7 in the super. Then place two empty deeps on top. That's it. place your five gallon bucket on the top bars. use a lid or piece of plexiglas.

I use a temp gun, usually by the time it gets to 105 it's close to done.

It's so simple and efficient, I decided not to make a warmer that I have to store when not in use. When all the box are full of bees I usually don't need to melt honey, in the fall/winter when I need a melter I always have extra boxes.
 

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I built one like psm1212 but with a front door instead of opening on top. I use a temp controller from honey run.
I did the same thing two years ago. I used a single electronic thermostat UNTIL the relay hung closed and heated 5 gallons to over 130*F. The honey was dark and tasted very differently than the gently heated honey from past batches so I had to feed it to the bees. Lesson learned was use two thermostats in series. If one hangs closed then the other should save the honey from being overheated.
By heat box is about 20 cu ft.
 

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All my honey from last season has crystallized. Some honey is in 8 oz plastic bears, some in quart canning jars, and some in 5 gallon buckets. This is the first year my bees have produced enough honey for me to have to warm it to remove the crystals. I am warming the honey to 105 degrees using a thermostat and a light bulb in a cooler. My problem is that for the honey in the plastic bears and quart jars that are packaged and ready to sell, most of the honey is liquid and clear and there is what looks like sediment on the bottom. I filter my honey using a 600 micron filter. Is this pollen that made it through the filter that lands on the bottom when the honey is warm and thin? Any suggestions on what to do with this? Has anyone else encountered this?
 
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