I havent set one up but I cant see why it wouldnt work? I did build a warre hive but havent had it through the winter yet. Ive read to place some #8 screen between the cloth and the wood when you install to keep them from gluing it down too tight.
Replacing the inner and telescoping covers on a Lang with a quilt and Warre-style roof is a major improvement. All of my Langs (when I used them) were set-up in such a way. Unfortunately, the other big problem with a Lang is that it is just too large and is the wrong shape to be a good hive for wintering bees. The bees are still likely to pass up stores and end up clustered against the quilt at one end of the hive body where they will either starve or have to be fed fondant or dry sugar to prevent their starvation, even when there are ample stores in the hive. We use nylon/polyester mosquito netting between the upper box and quilt to prevent heavy propolization of the quilt to the box/top bars. They still stick it down pretty good, but it can be removed without damage. I think 8 mesh might allow for to much propolizing, although I have never tried it.
I built some screened shims that are shallow on one side (3/4") and deep on the flipside (about 2"). I've been using these instead of standard inner covers.
During the summer, the deep side is down, allowing me to peek inside the hive without disturbing them. I can also lay a queen cage on top of the bars and monitor the situation, again without interfering in the business of the hive. The 2" space is bigger than they like, so I haven't had any problems with them trying to build comb there.
This winter, I'm planning to flip the shim and fill the 2" space with dry leaves, hay, etc. This should act the same as the quilt if not better, since this would mimic what would happen in a natural bee tree. Plus I can push the leaves out of the way to check on the bees without disturbing the cluster.
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