[GOHoney]

I have had the entrance on the house for several days. I will be placing the exit tunnel on tomorrow and adding the hive box this weekend.

 

[tomkat]

After you get some forgaers are you going to try and get the queen?

 

[GOHoney]

Yes, I do hope to get her tomkat.

 

[tomkat]

Ok are you baiting the trap out?

 

[GOHoney]

I will be putting in a frame of eggs and larva.

 

[tomkat]

Good idea, keep us posted.

 

[GOHoney]

I will tomkat. I have a tree I will be starting on next week. Perfect setup. Their opening is about 3 foot off the ground.

 

[WBVC]

I have had the entrance on the house for several days. I will be placing the exit tunnel on tomorrow and adding the hive box this weekend. View attachment 11156 View attachment 11157 View attachment 11158

Why does the first pic have screen on the bottom?

How small is the narrow opening of the comb?

Do you then put the rim with the male part of the trap on a regular deep? Does that work as well as the Hogan style with the male part entering into, rather than above, the main box?

I ask as I have a bee tree on the property and am interested in placing a trap...not to eliminate them but to get bees for nucs from them

Both openings are right at ground level.

 

[GOHoney]

WBVC,

I designed the trap to go between the bottom and the hive box. The hole in the trap screen is big enough for Drones and the queen to get out. This design is modeled after Hogan's trap, I just changed it so I would not have to cut a hole in a hive box. I am attaching a pic of the trap with the bottom board and hive box.

Why does the first pic have screen on the bottom?

How small is the narrow opening of the comb?

Do you then put the rim with the male part of the trap on a regular deep? Does that work as well as the Hogan style with the male part entering into, rather than above, the main box?

I ask as I have a bee tree on the property and am interested in placing a trap...not to eliminate them but to get bees for nucs from them

Both openings are right at ground level.

 

[WBVC]

Thanks for the photos. At the front is the bottom board and entrance below the trap rim?
By having a large open space beneath the frames do the bees burr this space or leave it open?

 

[GOHoney]

I'm sure they will build comb down there WBVC. I will deal with that.

 

[Scpossum]

Have a question....Are you saying the queen will come out due to the frame of eggs and larvae or is there something else you put in the deep? thinking about trying to trap out a colony in a camper floor.

 

[Harley Craig]

why is the tunnel so long? The few trap outs I've done, I've learned that you want that tunnel as short as possible if you want to get the queen, that far away from the original next, they are liable to build queen cells on the eggs you donate. Not necessarily a bad thing unless you are wanting the " feral " genetics. Someone posted last yr about installing a junk caged queen in the trap, and was almost 100% successful on getting the queen out of the parent hive. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[tomkat]

Have a question....Are you saying the queen will come out due to the frame of eggs and larvae or is there something else you put in the deep? thinking about trying to trap out a colony in a camper floor.

I ADD lemon grass oil on a q tip to my traps

 

[GOHoney]

SCpossum, yes I hope to draw the queen out with the brood frame. Harley, the tube is that long to get past the house overhang. I set the hive box on Sunday morning. I will be adding a frame of uncapped brood tomorrow after work.

 

[Harley Craig]

gotcha, let us know how it works.

 

[GOHoney]

They look really good today. Just like they live in the hive. I was going to add brood today, but we have a sever storm forecast for tonight and tomorrow. I will try and add tomorrow afternoon.

 

[GOHoney]

May have bad news on trap-out. The property owner said late yesterday there was a swarm in the timber next to his property about 90 yards away. This afternoon when I looked there was a lot fewer bees coming and going.

 

[GOHoney]

I Checked all of my hives today trying to find a frame with uncapped brood for the trap. All I found was capped brood and eggs. I went ahead and put in place the trap screen on the house. I will be setting the hive box on the tree in the morning. I will check over the next few days for uncapped. Will capped work? Side note, I have frames on the outside of both deep boxes on two hive that are fully capped honey. Very heavy.

 

[Cleo C. Hogan Jr]

If you have eggs you have uncapped brood. Technically, eggs hatch into larva and larva are capped, incubated, and on day 21 worker bees emerge. But terminology gets thrown around.

What you are looking for is eggs, or larva, to get the smell of new brood. Capped brood will work, (just not as good). Nurse bees will come out to work this capped brood, but, eggs and larva require more attention, and consequently more nurse bees come out. That is what you want.

What you are hoping for is to fool the queen, into thinking there is another queen in this box that layed those eggs. She comes out to investigate and/or fight. She will stay for a while, lay some eggs to establish her dominance over this chamber. Then, she may stay in the trap for a while, or, return to the tree. The nurse bees and houskeepers come out to take care of the brood so it will incubate and emerge. When you insert the brood, cleaners, and fanners come out to clean the trap, and to keep the chamber at the right temperature.

Sealed brood is far better than no brood at all. I would not put frames of honey in the trap. You don't want them to use the trap as a place to store surplus honey.

cchoganjr