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Hello everyone, this is my first post, so go easy on me! :) I've been out of beekeeping for quite some time, but would like to return to the art of keeping bees now that I've hit my 40th... it's good for the soul, and much cheaper than therapy! As a former Lang beekeeper, I would like to use standard Lang frames, but this time around I want to experiment with horizontal hives, as they're probably much easier on the back! My father and I are going to build a HH using Michael Bush's specs of 30 to 33 medium frames, with these measurements: 48" x 19 7/8" x 10" (the extra inch at the bottom will give me some play room). So, I'd like to know if anyone out there is currently using a horizontal hive, and if so, how is it going? Can you please post some pics, I'd really appreciate it! Also, I'm not sure of whether to use top or bottom entrances, how to build those entrances, and I'm still undecided on solid floor vs. screened floor for varroa... please help! I'm really feeling like a lost Bob Villa here! Thanks everyone...
 

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I have 12 langs, 1 kenya and a 33 frame long. The long is fun for a change, nice to have frames moveable to other hives, I graft more out of the long its easier to find brood without having to remove boxes.

The long hive isnt as practical for me for honey production but thats not what I'm using it for. I just drilled 5 3/4 holes in the front with a little landing board. I use a follower board also to keep their space controlled.

I also used 1 inch starter strips in frames not full foundation. The long hive winter well.

Have fun
.
 

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Thanks for the info. Is there anyone working a horizontal hive / long hive that wouldn't mind posting some pics? It would be most appreciated!
 

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A long hive is properly a Tanzanian top bar as opposed to a Kenyan with sloped sides. One of my students populated her Tanzanian hive with bees last weekend at the workshop. I will try to get pictures and a report.
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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>A long hive is properly a Tanzanian top bar as opposed to a Kenyan with sloped sides.

If it has only top bars, yes.

I assume you've seen mine, but here they are:

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeshorizontalhives.htm

It was a hard winter in Nebraska. Several weeks on a couple of occasions of -27 F and winds that blew off a lot of my tops, not to mention no fall flow... but still my horizontal hives survived fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mr. Bush,

Thank you for sharing. Do you think it's necessary for my horizontal hive to be screened for varroa, or can I use a solid wood floor? I live in a harsh desert climate (Arizona), and I'm afraid the heat here in Phoenix would cause the bees to work harder at keeping the hive cool in the summer if I used a screened floor... what are your thoughts?

Also, after much research on the net, I've decided on a top entrance, seems just as logical as a bottom entrance, plus less disturbance from grass or mice.

Thanks,
James
 

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>Thank you for sharing. Do you think it's necessary for my horizontal hive to be screened for varroa, or can I use a solid wood floor?

I see no difference in Varroa.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm#SBB

Cooling with too much ventilation can be impossible.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm#ventilation

> I live in a harsh desert climate (Arizona), and I'm afraid the heat here in Phoenix would cause the bees to work harder at keeping the hive cool in the summer if I used a screened floor... what are your thoughts?

I agree with you.

>Also, after much research on the net, I've decided on a top entrance, seems just as logical as a bottom entrance, plus less disturbance from grass or mice.

I admit my only motivation at the time I went to top entrances was to foil the skunks. The rest came along for the ride and were things I never thought of until afterwards. But I love them.
 

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I had a problem, on one of my two horizontal hives, with them not being able to maintain such a large space, make sure to use follower boards. Although this year I am moving to double wides instead of triple.
 
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