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Horizontal hive from plans of Frederick Dunn with some changes

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I have just finished building a horizontal hive from the free plans of Frederick Dunn ( Bee Hive Prints based on Frederick Dunns modifications ) built from all 2x lumber for insulation. Needless to say, this hive is a HEAVY beast and I estimate over 200-250 pounds. His plans called for an optional 2x4 shim below the frames to allow more room for bees and to help from swarming. I commented on one of his videos and inquired if he had built one with the shim and he said he hadn't but was in process of building one.
I went with a flat lid vs pitched and made it from 2x6 frame and 2 - 2x12 and 1 1- 2x6 top boards.
These are some of the build photos. I used 2 old vanity license plates as protectors over entrances.




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What size frames does it take?
Standard deeps, the bottom 2x4 is the "shim" that Frederick Dunn suggests for building a larger amount of bees.
Standard deeps, the bottom 2x4 is the "shim" that Frederick Dunn suggests for building a larger amount of bees.
I went this way, I'd make sure my box fits the Dadant-Blatt frame sizing.
Yours should fit it sounds like - 12.5" frame.

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You won't like that extra space under the frames with langstroth deeps. They will build comb that requires sliding a lot of frames over to make enough space to remove a frame. There is potential of rolling queens frequently. As they build drone comb below the frame it's usually wider than the rest of the comb. Mine have 1.5 inches, maybe two below the frames and wide drone comb is a problem. Perhaps with yours having 3 plus inches they will not build the comb to the side of the bottom of the frame.

Slated bottom boards are good for two things. Provide space for bees when the brood area is overheating and provide a wind barrier and cold sink in winter below the brood. Promotes them to use the entire depth of frame near entrances. I mention this because that would be a great fix to stop the bees from drawing comb below your frames and make management easier. There is no reason for that bottom board to be slatted. Shim to height desired depth and cut plywood to create a second floor. Use a hole saw to provide one exit six inches or more in from the hive exits. You'd have a layer of air barrier for insulation, no direct wind into hive and a place for bees instead of bearding to regulate hive temp in summers.
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You won't like that extra space under the frames with langstroth deeps.
I agree.
With the Lang frames being shallow - bees will want to build down.

Even with the Dadant-Blatt frames (12") they still want to build down.
Only with the Layens/Ukrainian frame that build down urge is mitigated.
I personally have none of those issues - no matter how much extra down space there is.

That's why, I think, just switching to the Dadant-Blatt sizing would be a smart move for the said hive.
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