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Here's the OFG bottom board vaporizer I've been working on, I think it is going to work out well for my small operation. Although I use top-entrance only hives, it should be adaptable to about any screened bottom board.
http://mannell.net/?p=89
Passing the OA vapors through the SBB will cause the OA vapors to cool and deposit onto the screen. The vapors need waft up into the frames where the bees are located and contact the mites. The further the distance and the more obstacles (SBB) reduces the effectiveness.
 

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I thought about that; but only a very small percentage condenses on the screen. My main concern is the effect of the acid on the screen over time; it may well deteriorate the screen. If so, I will probably do away with the screen entirely and just use a removable slide in bottom. I haven't found the screen bottom necessary for ventilation, nor very beneficial to mite or small hive beetle in my area. I leave the slide-in board in all year round.
 

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I have a question for those of you who use a homemade acid vaporizer. Do many bees die from coming in contact with the vaporizer? Also, have you ever had a queen come in contact with it? Are you just taking the risk that the queen is not close by when you slide it in? Any danger of catching the hive on fire with all the heat?
 

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You may get a very small handful of curious bees get killed. I have not lost a queen let or many bees for that matter. If you run screed bottom boards you can put the vaporizer below the screen if you enter it from the back of the hive. I have mine rigged to enter the back of the hive with the slid out Board slid in. And the vapourizer under the screen. For my solid bottom bottom board hives I go in from the front. No real problem at all.
 

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I smoke hard into the bottom entrance, quickly rake out the ladder comb under center two or three frames and push in the vaporizer. The queen bee would likely be the first one to run up the frames if she were in the bottom. You will kill a few bees but not as many as you would squish when stacking off and on to do an inspection
 

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I use SBB, I know I can't use the white plastic cardboard to seal off the vapors, because it will most likely burn. My slot is very narrow - I have a piece of 1/4 plywood, but I can't get it in the slot. I looked at the hardware store and they have sheets of silver stuff in the stove pipe aisle. I'm guessing it's made of the same stuff as stove pipe??? It's very thin and would fit. My question is do you think I could use it to close off the bottom while I vaporize? Or will that sheet heat up and over heat my hive. Sorry this is not clear as to what this sheet of metal at Menard's is made of.
 

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Mimzy,
If it is stovepipe material, you're fine. Aluminum flashing works well also. You do not have to have a perfect fit, but you want to close off the openings of size.
 

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Make a pair of tapered shims by cutting a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 wood 20" long, diagonally from end to end. Lift and separate the front of your hive from its bottom board and slip one of the resulting wedges under each side. Your front entrance is now about 5/8" higher opening. The first vaporizor I made a bit on the tall side needed this trick to fit in.

Similar pieces can also be used to instantly create additional entrances anywhere between boxes or under a top cover. I have a bunch of them precut. They will also create an instant hive bottom on any flat surface.
 

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Remember, if your BB opening is to small for the vap, you can always vap from the top down! Just make a two inch or so shim the size of the hive body, cut a slot in it for the vap, place the vap with OA on the top bars (you may want to place a small piece of wood or sheeting under it) cover with the top cover and vaporize. You can use the plastic or ??? to cover the screen bottom board if you have one. Quick and simple .....
 

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You can also use a hive tool to raise the box off the SBB while you slide the vaporizer into the hive. It will then rest on the screen, and won't burn the plastic.
A long term approach might be to build up your SBBs so you can slide the vaporizer into the bottom entrance.
 

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I recently made a vaporizer out of bar stock aluminum and aluminum rod... I used 12 gauge braided wire but it is getting really hot and I don't want to mess anything up... What kind of wire are you all using and should it be getting hot?
 

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I know you're supposed to take honey supers off before the treatment. I have two hives that are new this year, so I left them on so the bees could have the honey later on. I do want to know what does the OA do to the honey. Does it poison it for human consumption, or does it make it taste weird or what. Someone is going to ask me this question and I want to know the correct answer.
 

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I know you're supposed to take honey supers off before the treatment. I have two hives that are new this year, so I left them on so the bees could have the honey later on. I do want to know what does the OA do to the honey. Does it poison it for human consumption, or does it make it taste weird or what. Someone is going to ask me this question and I want to know the correct answer.
I know that folk say that oxalic acid is found naturally, but the truth is that you can get pretty sick from eating some plants that contain it (rhubarb leaves, for example). I don't know the levels that are found in natural (yet hazardous) sources, nor do I know the levels that would be left on honey supers after treatment.

The OSHA PEL (permissible exposure limit) for oxalic acid is 1 mg/cubic meter, compared to 5 mg/cubic meter for cyanide. Although general exposure isn't the same as ingestion, I'd hazard a guess that it is the possibility of poisoning that leads to the recommendation to remove the honey supers.
 
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