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Crofter, that thing looks like it would last a lifetime lol. Nice bit of craftsmanship.
 

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Interesting as on one of the videos showing vaporization they first checked it was melted...then put it back in to treat. Perhaps many are using a substance quite different from they thought. I think it may have been a Fat Bee Man video.
 

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I dont remember off hand but it is somewhere here in a post; It is for VW but not sure whether before or after the TDI. engine. Radar? Some glowplugs must be used with a controller or they go like flash bulbs so you must get one that is for full 12v. Actually the ones I used were stamped rated 11.5V . I would not go to the trouble of threading for the plug. That and a tapered seat is to withstand 1500 or so PSI in an operating diesel. Set screw is simpler. Use a 20 ft or so cord and you have no need to be anywhere near the fuming hive unless you are trying to do rapid fire and jerk the vaporizer out to put in the next hive. I leave in and hive blocked for 15 min and there is no fumes. OA unless heated, gives off no more fumes than sugar would. If you over heat or apply heat too quickly it will flash to CO and formic acid. As you heat it it should first liquify then boil off over a minute or so and the Oxalic vapor looks like thick white smoke. It is deposited over the interior in minute crystals. Stay out of that cloud just as you would stay out of the smoke of burning plastic.

I had fun making it but the price of a proven design is around a hundred bucks. Having one thin enough to slip through a standard entrance is a big plus as you can do it without disturbing the hive and in any weather.
 

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Yes the Autolite 1104 has the same rating as a Bosch 80010, the autolite plug is a little bit longer and slightly cheaper than the Bosch. I agree that it is better to remove the threads as this helps to keep the unit shorter in height, the Heilyser is only 1/2" in thickness.
 

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Thanks on finding those numbers. If you are making something up don't go too small with the bowl. When it starts to melt the OA bubbles and froths quite a bit. The first unit I made tended to boil over. Plan to do a few runs in open air to get timing right. I give about a minute and pause 30 seconds then a couple of 15 second shots. There is a bit of delay, then overshoot effect.

I had notions of trying a CPU cooling fan and a housing around the unit with a nozzle to blow vapors into any shape of entrance. The nozzle would have to be something like paper though or the vapors condense on it like hoar frost and never make it inside. That can be a problem with the crack pipe designs (besides being too close to the action)
 

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Here is the type I make now. Big difference is it has 2 trays to hold the oxalic. I figured the heat would dissipate better this way. I use the Autolite #1104's in mine and have it rigged to plug into the 12V outlet on my ATV. Makes it pretty easy.

 

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ky mike, that is an interesting design, I like it, great workmanship and there is no need to remove the threads.
 

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crofter, I agree with the larger bowl idea, the only complaint that I had with the heilyser was that the bowl was a little small which allowed the bubbling OA to spill out a little so I machined a larger pan with thicker walls and it was a big improvement, no more spillage.
 

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KY Mike;

One glow plug only? I notice a bit of scorch marks on bottom boards. Plan to give a wrap of glass cloth and an aluminum foil skin to keep the heat where it is needed. It works though and may be one of those things that dont happen.
 

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Hi,
I made one, that was very inexpensive. I purchased a 12 volt car/travel coffee cup heater that plugs into a cigarette lighter in a car. I also used a 3/4 inch copper pipe end cap.
I formed the heaters coil around the copper cap. it works good. I also made a measuring scoop out of a 1/2 inch copper end cap and soldered a handle to the end of the cap.
FYI Glen H be careful with hand bent coils. I use work at GE appliances as an engineer, Mg0 is a the heat conducting dieletric filler between the sheath and Nickle-Chrome wire. If the sheath is bent to sharply the MgO is displaced and the heating wire can short to the sheath in a catastrpophic failure. In the industry we call it zippering, the sheath basically zippers open, sparks, mini-eplosion, etc.

IMO glow plug is much safer route.The heater way very well function just fine for you, just a bit of caution.
 

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Thanks for the FYI Burns, much appreciated and good point. I used to work with Metal sheathed heat tracing cables and remember the white compound that kept the element centered and away from the out coating. Trying to remember the name?? Pyro something??
I have actually started making a two glow plug heater. Got it working, just need some finishing touches, then I'll post some pictures of it.


Glen
 

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Thanks for the FYI Burns, much appreciated and good point. I used to work with Metal sheathed heat tracing cables and remember the white compound that kept the element centered and away from the out coating. Trying to remember the name?? Pyro something??
Yes, exactly the powder keeps the Heated wire (Nickel Chrome) centered within the sheath. The white insulating powder is Magnesium Oxide (MgO), under many different trade names. In the manufacturing process the rods are packed straight and bent into desired shape with cnc benders. There is a minimum bend radius and amount of bends that is considered safe, I don't remember those specs.

Good Luck!
 

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Finished the new vaporizer today and have tested it out a couple of times.
But I have not tested it in a hive yet.
I didn't have any 1/2 plate aluminum so I used two sheets of 1/4 inch and one sheet of 1/8
Drilled the pocket with a hole saw in the one of the 1/4 inch plates and the 1/8 plate.
Sandwiched the plates together and then milled it to shape. The handle rod is aluminum stock.
I added a switch too.
After adding the heat shield on the bottom, I ended up milling the 1/8th off the top to make it slimmer.













Glen
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I made four like KY Mike's design, thank you! Ran all four in parallel and got a bunch of hives done right quick!

One apiary is in a sheltered location with very still air. The vapor stayed like campfire smoke and chilly scouts. I am very glad I chose to use my APR first thing.
 

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I made four like KY Mike's design, thank you! Ran all four in parallel and got a bunch of hives done right quick!

One apiary is in a sheltered location with very still air. The vapor stayed like campfire smoke and chilly scouts. I am very glad I chose to use my APR first thing.
Awesome! Glad you liked my design!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So after treating all my hives for my first round I am curious what kind of residue people are finding in their vaporizers. It seems that there is almost always a little crud left over. Thoughts?
 

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Got around to using my new homemade 2 glow plug vaporizer. It appeared to work well off of a 12 volt ridding lawn tractor battery. I like the on off switch! Took about three minutes to vaporize and finish off making vapour. Put in through the back of the hive under the SBB.
I like putting it in the back of the hive compared to the front entrance.

Glen
 
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