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Homemade Feeder Shim

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Hello all. I just made a 2.5” tall feeder shim. Going to drop in some pro winter patties tomorrow. My question is, if I have a notch in inner cover (notch down for winter) do I need a notch or anything in the shim I just made?
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This is one of those topics with a wide range of prevailing opinion. You might start here:

 

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I leave my shims whole (no notches) and just put the inner cover on top of that.
I am a notch up kind of keeper.
 
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I drill a 1/2 inch round hole in the center of the front of the feeder shim. I closed the notches in the inner cover. The round hole is a back up entrance should the bottom get blocked by ice or dead bees.. It also provides a modest upwards convective fresh air for the hive.
 

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I make my inner cover as either a 3/8" inner cover for summer, or a 1" shim for winter use with a sugar block. I make my own equipment and when I make my inner covers I rip the wood to 1 5/8". I dado a notch for the 1/4" plywood at 3/8" from 1 side. This leaves 3/8" for the summer use. I do use a notch for the upper entrance on the 3/8" side. I only notch out 3/4" and I like to put it in the front. I also drill 2- 1 1/2" holes in the plywood and join them together for an oval shape. The bees like to hang out here and they also herd the small hive beetles up here.
 

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I think I need a notch sized notch here in the shim in the back View attachment 71836
Hello all. I just made a 2.5” tall feeder shim. Going to drop in some pro winter patties tomorrow. My question is, if I have a notch in inner cover (notch down for winter) do I need a notch or anything in the shim I just made? View attachment 71835
View attachment 71834
Last couple of years, while I was using woodenware, I made my feeder shims from 1X2 furring strips with no notch. I put the shims on top of the super over the frames and covered the shims with screened (on the bottom of course) quilt box filed with cedar chips in a pillow case. Had plenty of space for the bees to access the food (fondant and protein patties) and they stayed cool in summer and warm in winter with no inner cover.
Might not be the best set up but it worked for me. Now I have Apimaye hive bodies so different circumstances apply.
 

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If you don't use your inner cover, you will have a mess of comb in there and propolized outer cover. I make my shims about 1-1/2" to avoid stray comb. I prefer the inner cover notch so winter wind is not blowing right on them in the shim. J
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wonder if anyone has done any CFD modeling on standard langstroth hives in regards to air flow for say a “winter mode” and a “summer mode”. There are so many different opinions, styles, variables, it’s mind boggling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you don't use your inner cover, you will have a mess of comb in there and propolized outer cover. I make my shims about 1-1/2" to avoid stray comb. I prefer the inner cover notch so winter wind is not blowing right on them in the shim. J
I would imagine they aren’t building comb in cold weather? It was highs in mid 20’s last few days. Today was a heat wave at 50. Conditions don’t seem right for comb building while I have a shim on. I guess I will find out lol
 

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Right there will be no comb building at this time for most parts of the US, there are exceptions as always. Just make sure to pull your shims when they are no longer needed and for sure shortly after when they start to bring in nectar and pollen come spring.
 
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I would imagine they aren’t building comb in cold weather? It was highs in mid 20’s last few days. Today was a heat wave at 50. Conditions don’t seem right for comb building while I have a shim on. I guess I will find out lol
I meant in the spring. They will start building comb way before I get into the hive in the spring. I have seen white flakes on my tray(indicating they are making wax) in February. J
 
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