Looks pretty good, is that pressure treated plywood? I have to say though, I could have built the same exact thing out of 1x pine for quite a bit less money. Maybe I just get wood cheaper at the lumber yard than some people do, I don't know.
I think that Jmgi's comment was in reference to the 3 boxes on top of the bottom board. Its pretty clear from the visible wood grain that the outer surface of the boxes are vertically oriented. If the hive is built to use standard frames, then two of those box sides are each 19 7/8" wide. The only practical way to get lumber that wide these days is either sheet goods (plywood, OSB, etc) or edge joined/glued boards. The box sides sure have the appearance of plywood from what I see.
In any case, congratulations on making your own woodenware.
But I suggest that you rethink that entrance feeder. Using that in the hive entrance often promotes robbing from other bees. Consider repurposing it into a top feeder.
lol sorry everyone, you are all correct, my apologies. It is ply wood, i was thinking of my second hive. The plywood was a pain to cut which is why the second is 1x10.
ill look into changing the feeder, ill take a shot a top feeder.
advise on types of top feeders?
If you made some 'deep' hive bodies (as the photo suggests you are using some deeps) and used 1x10s, then you may have issues with frames in those deeps violating 'bee space'. Deeps are normally 9 5/8" tall, and kiln dried and surfaced 1x10s are only 9.25" wide. Check to see how far apart the frames from two boxes stacked up are. Correct 'bee space' is 1/4 to 5/16 inch between the bottom of one frame and the top of the next one.
thx for the link Rader Sidetrack, interesting thread, good information
i know how the "mis-measuring" of boards are like 2x4s are not exactly 2inches by 4 inches, but i lucked out and the lumber i bought was barely over 9 3/4 so i only had to shave off 1/8, give or take some saw dust layers. but your are right Rader Sidetrack, from now on i am buying 1x12s to avoid it not being wide enough next time.
That was something i was wanting to look into but i was not sure what would work the best to hold them onto the boxes(was leaning toward strong wood glue....never attached handles, usually cut the hand holds into the wood). I was looking at the 1x2s like you were saying Michael Bush because i have a hand truck with two long bars that have adjustable width so they can lift the heavy boxes(not lift off the hive but carry them)
Nice work, now you have to paint it . I love my work and really think it looks cheezy painted but cannot find a better way to get it to last without working it every couple of years. Prime the ends of the plywood extra if it soaks in (that’s a good thing) and two coats of top coat exterior paint (look up mis-tint or oops paints on this forum for cheap paint). I have some plywood boxes that have been outside here for years without any delaminating.
When I do cleats, I glue and screw with deck screws. 1 1/4" where they would stick through if longer, and minimum of 2" on the corners where there is wood for the extra length. You need pilot holes (on the corners especially) to keep them from splitting.
If you are using a telescoping cover don't for get to keep the cleats down 2" so the top will go on.
I did this on my first hive I built now I have a jig that holds them in place at the right height.
When you cut a 1 x 12" down save the cutoff's for your cleats.
greens a very hot color attracts sunlight lots of people do it never understood why i paint two to three hundred hives a year for local dealers and green ones are at least 3 times warmer to the touch than white ones when out in the sun ,makes sense i guess that the color green would attract sunlight thats why plants are green right. nice job building your own hive
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