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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - I have many frames of capped honey (due to winter hive deaths) and would like to use them in my new hives (provided they are disease-free (moisture killed my hives, not disease)). My question is: how should i arrange the frames in a 10 frame Langstroth deep? For example: bottom deep - 2 capped, 3 comb-only, 2 capped, 3 comb-only. top deep - XXX. I much appreciate your guidance. Thanks - Kevin
 

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I would put 2-4 frames of stores on the outside and the package/nuc in the middle on empty (new or drawn) frames. I would still consider feeding syrup and pollen patties to the new hive until it is built up well.

After the first box is built up I would put the next box above it in a similar configuration with 4-6 frames of stores on the outside and empty frames in the middle. This layout gives the bees some access to stores, but also gives them room to build the brood nest.

Please add your location to your profile, it helps get responses that are better suited to your area.
 

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Hi. I don't know how to view your location on a mobile phone. So where are you and when are you planning to install what (package / nuc)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi and thanks for your note. I am going to install the packages in early April and a nuc in May. Kevin
 

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2 to 3 frames of stores should be enough, only use 1 box to start, you will not gain a single bee for 3 weeks.
If possible include a frame with pollen, even if under honey. Hold the frame to a window or light the dark spots will be 2/3 full cells of pollen.
With honey available, I do not feed the package, up to you seems others do.
GG
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks much - I was thinking about the feeding suggestions, given that I do have the the available frames of capped honey. I am concerned that, by feeding, it might lead to a "honey bound" problem.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Amibusiness, you need to exit enhanced mobile view on your phone to see the location.

Gaucho90, I would give the package two frames of honey on either side of 6 frames of foundation. Packages will draw comb very fast and you never have enough drawn comb. When you add the second box, elmer fudd's advice is the same as my own.
 

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As you have already got half a dozen suggestions on configurations so why not throw my $.02 as well. I would do very similar to what JW suggested. Only thing I would do different is 2 or 3 frames of empty drawn comb in the center for the queen to be able to lay as soon as she physically can. They would also have a few frames of foundation to start drawing out and honey frames on the outside. Let a couple hatch cycles pass and they should have the first box packed out with bees and brood ready for another. Good luck.
 

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Early April in central nj, I assume has a flow. I'd put 2-3 empty comb (for them to cluster in if it gets unexpectedly cold) and 1.5-2 honey or the equivalent, 2 foundation, 3 empty frames (no foundation is less surface to guard): EEEFHFCCCH. Put queen cage on one of the combs. Put entrance reducer on small if cool or robbing (not likely!) until queen is released, then when you go in to take out cage, if all looks good put reducer on middle. If you want them to draw comb (you do!) feed 1:1. When you inspect all you need to check is the 2 middle frames H and F. When F is half drawn or so take out an E or 2 and place F's inside honey, assuming no brood is in honey frames yet. When there are a few frames capped brood and only 2 undrawn F's add 2nd box and take out reducer if it's still in. Pull a few (1-3 depending how much comb you are giving them vs what they need to draw) frames w brood into center top box and replace those with comb or foundation. Add a bit more honey to the outside (2 frames) and rest comb and foundation. Keep feeding if they are still drawing and still taking feed.
If you are wanting them to use up the honey to free up the comb/ turn honey into bees and comb then put a honey comb in the middle of established brood nest and give them foundation to draw.
Nuc similar. I like to install them on one side of the box and put a new frame for them to work in #5 (N is for nuc frame: NNNNFNFFEE). That way I only need to inspect 1 frame in the hive, the F between 2 N's, and take action according to what I see.... I don't like to add more than 1 frame into the middle of brood nest (side is fine) as it can cool brood and throws the bees off a bit.... Enjoy!
 

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Thanks much - I was thinking about the feeding suggestions, given that I do have the the available frames of capped honey. I am concerned that, by feeding, it might lead to a "honey bound" problem.
true my fear would be the same.

If when you add the second deep you "still" have honey frames, and they do not contain Syrup, you can put then in the center of the brood nest 1 or 2 at a time. If crystalized I would even de cap, if the honey is liquid they do not de cap. The bees do not like honey in the brood nest so they will move it out and up in the supers if they have comb space. If you have a lot of capped honey and it is liquid some could be extracted. I would extract the ones that are Liquid and feed the crystalized one back. Also could same a few frames to add to the hives for wither stores later in the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
true my fear would be the same.

If when you add the second deep you "still" have honey frames, and they do not contain Syrup, you can put then in the center of the brood nest 1 or 2 at a time. If crystalized I would even de cap, if the honey is liquid they do not de cap. The bees do not like honey in the brood nest so they will move it out and up in the supers if they have comb space. If you have a lot of capped honey and it is liquid some could be extracted. I would extract the ones that are Liquid and feed the crystalized one back. Also could same a few frames to add to the hives for wither stores later in the summer.

Many thanks to all for the advice provided - as of April 05, packages are in, queens released, top feeders & pollen patties are in place.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Queens are released - I will pay a visit in another week or so to check on eggs, larvae, etc. I included 4 - 6 frames of capped honey in the deep as well as putting top feeders on each hive. Neither hive is taking much of the sugar syrup and I have seen bees coming back with full pollen baskets. Should I continue to feed? Thanks again - Kevin
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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I still think you have too much honey in the hive and not enough bees to defend it. I would not feed at this point unless you remove some of the honey and are trying to get foundation drawn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I still think you have too much honey in the hive and not enough bees to defend it. I would not feed at this point unless you remove some of the honey and are trying to get foundation drawn out.
Thanks much - am going to remove the feeders. I think I need to put on the second deep once I have capped brood on at least 4 frames...unless folks think otherwise.

Really appreciate all sharing his/her knowledge.

Kevin
 
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