8-frame equipment is also good if you want to include younger kids. The 10-frame equipment is too big and heavy for most pre-teens to manage.I use 10 frame, but I'm fairly young (43) and in great shape, no bad back or knees. A lot of older beeks advocate the 8 frame medium super, and build the brood hive 3 boxes tall.
8-frame mediums are supposedly far easier to lift and manipulate than 10 frame. Something to consider.
I would stay with the standard 10 frame Langstroth hive. maintainance of the thes hives are easier. shallow supers for honey super can be used for ease. It easier to sell this equipment if the time comes.For discussion of the various types of hives; Langstroth, Top Bar, etc., and how to do an initial setup. Things to consider, pros and cons, such as future extracting issues and supering. Frame and foundation types.
I like the rabbeted better, less end grain to rot and with todays glue you don't have to worry about them falling apart. I know that if you keep them painted one joint will last as long as another IMO however by some of the photos I've seen of a lot of hives painting seems to be the last thing on the agenda. I also like the 8 frame hive with deep bodies and medium supers, how often are you going to be lifting the brood chambers and as to selling 8 frame equipment I didn't get into this to resell it later if thats your thinking maybe you should reconsider BeeKeeping as a hobby! Just my opinion!I like the standard 10 frame. I think most like the finger cut or finger-lock corners the most. Does anyone like Rabbeted Hive Bodies rather than the finger-lock corners?
Still trying to work on making my own hives, but having problems with the handles.
I like the rabbeted better, less end grain to rot and with todays glue you don't have to worry about them falling apart. I know that if you keep them painted one joint will last as long as another IMO however by some of the photos I've seen of a lot of hives painting seems to be the last thing on the agenda. QUOTE]
I think I like the finger joint, but I do have some that are rabbeted and I keep mine well painted... always have even when I started back in the 60's. I like them to look nice as well asn keep them from rottttttt. I never have used glue, ever. I like it as safe and natural for them. I don't like using plastic. After all, plastic is Petroleum, and that is not healthy for anyone. They are now showing that water in plastic is not as healthy as tap water....because of the plastic bottles. :scratch: I use to buy if by the case too...![]()
http://www.millerbeesupply.com/Page8 This is the rabbeted joine I was talking about. Finger joints are easily done on a table saw by making a jig.Hi Eaglerock, you mention some joints that I am not familiar with. The traditionals are finger joints. I have used half bling dovetails and liked them because I don't like end wood exposed. Now I am using Miter Lock joints that have no end wood exposure at all and seem to me to be the strongest. I use TiteBondIII glue and find there is very little exposure of the glue to areas where the bees can get to. Finger Joints on the table saw are a bit dangerous to me and if there is just a little variation in the spacing the corners don't match up. But then again, it's just my opinion. Take care and have fun
{Cutting and pasting a reply I wrote earlier today on a farming forum to another excited newbe planning to start beekeeping with a TB hive:]So if you are starting out is it better to learn on a TBH or Langstroth?
Crushing and straining is the method that I've read about.Fair enough. I am a bit further south but it does get cold here. How is extraction done with TBH or is it all pretty much comb for sale?
i am trying to decide between 2 deeps or 3 mediums for my first hives.I have enjoyed using all mediums. It's been very nice to be able to move frames and boxes from top to bottom without having to think about it.