I like the pdf plans for the box joint hive boxes posted on here, but I have a question. The plan calls for double blind stops for the frame rest rabbet and says to chisel out the rounded part at each end so the 3/4" piece of wood remains. This is to give more material thru which to place a fastener into the intersecting hive side piece. Discussions on here have asked why not rabbet all the way thru instead of using blind stops and just reverse the pin/notch order on the sides and fronts. The answer is always that the joint will be weaker when prying frames away from that "floating pin." I just can't see that 3/4" little ***** of wood has any strength much anyway. When I chisel out the round part, that little 3/4" piece will chip out many times during the process anyway, demonstrating its weakness. Am I missing something here? It still seems to me that the pin reversal and full rabbet frame rest would be just as strong if glued and nailed properly. I am wondering if the Titebond II is not going to hold that floating pin, along with a 1 1/2" staple into the 3/8" remaining stock of the frame rest.
Just a serious question from a former cabinet maker who is not connecting the dots on this.
Thanks,
Rick
Just a serious question from a former cabinet maker who is not connecting the dots on this.
Thanks,
Rick