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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had an idea while completing my 5 frame Swarm Trap....Have you ever used a hinged Top on your trap?

I was thinking about doing that and simply latching the other side to keep it tight.

The Top on my Swarm Trap is 9"x22" and want to put the hinges on the 22" side allowing me to open and view what's going on inside the trap.

Good idea or just a new beekeeper thinking out loud?

Thanks
S.
 

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I also had the thought for about 3/4 of a second, and then I realized that if the top was hinged and the comb was attached to the top, the comb would then swing outward along with the top when you opened it.
I then decided to just screw the top down, that way I can simply unscrew the top and take it off in a straight trajectory. See what I mean?
However, you could hinge and latch the side of the trap. That way you can open it and conveniently cut out the combs from the sides.
 

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There are a lot of different ideas about what makes the best swarm traps. I have made them from scrap OSB, 2X12s, MDF, and random scrap deck boards, 1x, and rough sawn stuff. You ca make them ou of about anything.

As for the lids, I usually just secure the top and bottom with two lengths of 550 paracord. i use a truckers hitch to get a good amount of tension in the line and tehy hold rather well. I have also tried screwing them down, nailing, some pneumatic brads, hinges and hasps...etc. I prety much decided that I want it to be easy to remove the lid IF NEEDED and cheap. I'm not interested in spending money i dont need to on some box sitting in the woods. Most of my boxes done get opened up. After swarm season, i collect them and stack them as they are, leaving the lids on them.

The one trap i caught a swarm in last year had the lid secured with 4 screws. If it wasn't enough harrassment to move the bees to a new home in my bee yard, they also had to deal with me zipping out screws with an impact driver. Then, since I'm an idiot, I realized that the bottom board was glued/stapled to the box so i couldn;t jsut use the box as it was. I had to move the frames over one by one to the new box.

Now I use cheap tops , and cheap bottom boards, but the boxes are all standard sizes for either 5 frame or for 10 frame and the bottomes are easy to remove. I can just set them in my yard wherever and add boxes as needed. This allows me to leave the swarm traps unchecked for as long as necessary. Worst case scenario is they draw out a lot of frames before I get there to rehome them.
 

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Why couldn't you hinge it on the short end, then when you open it you could reach each frame and pry it loose if they attached it?
Then the lid would stay in place and you could open it with less vibration. (THOUGHTS?)
 

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I actually made a couple swarm traps with hinged lids and a hasp just a couple weeks ago. I'm not sure what made me do it, I guess I saw the old hinges in a drawer at the right time. I honestly don't know what the benefit will be, if any, but I will let you know if I like them or scrap them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I actually made a couple swarm traps with hinged lids and a hasp just a couple weeks ago. I'm not sure what made me do it, I guess I saw the old hinges in a drawer at the right time. I honestly don't know what the benefit will be, if any, but I will let you know if I like them or scrap them.
Groovy

Thanks, I hinged mine let me know how yours work out and I'll do the same:}
 
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