I have only had bees since April. I have one strong hive and one weak hive that I had to re-queen. The strong hive has the brood box and one super very full of honey. The second super has nothing in it no honey or wax. Do I leave the super on or do I take it off? My small hive only has a brood box and a small super. The small super does not have anything in it. Do I take that off? Thank you
help with hive
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Yes. Take it off. Also, feed both colonies 2:1 sugar syrup to get them prepared for the winter.I have only had bees since April. I have one strong hive and one weak hive that I had to re-queen. The strong hive has the brood box and one super very full of honey. The second super has nothing in it no honey or wax. Do I leave the super on or do I take it off? My small hive only has a brood box and a small super. The small super does not have anything in it. Do I take that off? Thank you
Yes. Take it off. Also, feed both colonies 2:1 sugar syrup to get them prepared for the winter.
Thank you, how long do I give them syrup, and how much (as much as they want) should I also give them pollen patties? I understand about taking the super off but if I do where will they store the honey they make from the sugar water. I have lots of questions don't have local bee keeper to help me. Thank you in advance
Thank you, how long do I give them syrup, and how much (as much as they want) should I also give them pollen patties? I understand about taking the super off but if I do where will they store the honey they make from the sugar water. I have lots of questions don't have local bee keeper to help me. Thank you in advance
Unfortunately, we live in very different places and climates, so if someone from your general area chimes in on this thread, I would take their advice over mine.
If you have a super with no wax (drawn comb) on the frames at this time of year (early Fall), it is very unlikely that bees will build wax in that untouched box to store honey over the winter.
The weak colony will store honey in its brood box on the margins of the brood nest and in the exterior frames. The strong colony will do the same as well as in the one super you will be leaving on the hive. As to the amount of syrup to feed, I would feed slowly and monitor weight (just heft it up with your hand from the bottom) and how the frames are filling up in the brood nest for the next month or so. You don't want them to get honey bound too soon in the season and have a late swarm. Later, when the risk of swarming is over, you can apply syrup more liberally. That is sort of a feel thing that you will develop.
Additionally, don't feed one without feeding the other. That will often cause robbing, especially of the weaker hive. Restrict your entrances with entrance reducers to the smallest width to prevent robbing this fall.
If you have a super with no wax (drawn comb) on the frames at this time of year (early Fall), it is very unlikely that bees will build wax in that untouched box to store honey over the winter.
The weak colony will store honey in its brood box on the margins of the brood nest and in the exterior frames. The strong colony will do the same as well as in the one super you will be leaving on the hive. As to the amount of syrup to feed, I would feed slowly and monitor weight (just heft it up with your hand from the bottom) and how the frames are filling up in the brood nest for the next month or so. You don't want them to get honey bound too soon in the season and have a late swarm. Later, when the risk of swarming is over, you can apply syrup more liberally. That is sort of a feel thing that you will develop.
Additionally, don't feed one without feeding the other. That will often cause robbing, especially of the weaker hive. Restrict your entrances with entrance reducers to the smallest width to prevent robbing this fall.
Unfortunately, we live in very different places and climates, so if someone from your general area chimes in on this thread, I would take their advice over mine.
If you have a super with no wax (drawn comb) on the frames at this time of year (early Fall), it is very unlikely that bees will build wax in that untouched box to store honey over the winter.
The weak colony will store honey in its brood box on the margins of the brood nest and in the exterior frames. The strong colony will do the same as well as in the one super you will be leaving on the hive. As to the amount of syrup to feed, I would feed slowly and monitor weight (just heft it up with your hand from the bottom) and how the frames are filling up in the brood nest for the next month or so. You don't want them to get honey bound too soon in the season and have a late swarm. Later, when the risk of swarming is over, you can apply syrup more liberally. That is sort of a feel thing that you will develop.
Additionally, don't feed one without feeding the other. That will often cause robbing, especially of the weaker hive. Restrict your entrances with entrance reducers to the smallest width to prevent robbing this fall
Again thank you for this info. Just one more the strong hives honey super is so full it takes two people to lift it. That is why I was going to leave a shallow super on that one so they have a place to put the syrup and pollen patties??? Is is such a big hive I was worried about a swarm so I wanted to give them the extra room. We will be in the 80s most of Sept and 60's in Oct. So there no chance of them building comb at this time???? I was going to give the weak hive pollen patties should I do the same with the strong hive? I am giving them both 2:1 at this time, should I give the strong hive the summer mixture since I have to feed both of them. Thank you again.
I would not say that they will not build comb. Only that they seem reluctant to build comb at this time of the year. At least that is my experience in my area. I don't feed pollen patties in the fall. Many do. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer to this. Pollen is the protein used for making new bees. Bee-making slows at this time of year as the colony cuts population for winter. I would supplement protein only in the early spring, when the queen kicks back into gear. However, many people have different views on that, so I don't think you hurt anything by feeding the pollen sub.
Also, I commonly "robin hood" my hives all season long. That is, if you have an abundance of capped honey frames in one hive and the other is starving, I rob from the rich and give to the poor. Knock off the bees before you transfer, just in case. Starvation (again, in my area) usually occurs in February and March, when there are fields full of budding flowers. It is maddening to have a starved hive that was only a few weeks away from the flow. But that is generally when it happens. At least that is my experience. So look to swap some frames around at your first inspections coming out of the winter.
Also, I commonly "robin hood" my hives all season long. That is, if you have an abundance of capped honey frames in one hive and the other is starving, I rob from the rich and give to the poor. Knock off the bees before you transfer, just in case. Starvation (again, in my area) usually occurs in February and March, when there are fields full of budding flowers. It is maddening to have a starved hive that was only a few weeks away from the flow. But that is generally when it happens. At least that is my experience. So look to swap some frames around at your first inspections coming out of the winter.
psm1212 Thank you for all your wonder info. Is it too late to play Robin Hood?I would not say that they will not build comb. Only that they seem reluctant to build comb at this time of the year. At least that is my experience in my area. I don't feed pollen patties in the fall. Many do. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer to this. Pollen is the protein used for making new bees. Bee-making slows at this time of year as the colony cuts population for winter. I would supplement protein only in the early spring, when the queen kicks back into gear. However, many people have different views on that, so I don't think you hurt anything by feeding the pollen sub.
Also, I commonly "robin hood" my hives all season long. That is, if you have an abundance of capped honey frames in one hive and the other is starving, I rob from the rich and give to the poor. Knock off the bees before you transfer, just in case. Starvation (again, in my area) usually occurs in February and March, when there are fields full of budding flowers. It is maddening to have a starved hive that was only a few weeks away from the flow. But that is generally when it happens. At least that is my experience. So look to swap some frames around at your first inspections coming out of the winter.
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