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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy July the 4th.

I have a 4 frame hand extractor that I bought from my neighbor for $70 two years ago. It is a nice one but he got the expensive electric extractor.

I did about 20 frames yesterday and the hand crank kept jumping out of gear. It took a long time to extract the frames.

Is there a easy fix? Looks like the handle lock and the corresponding piece that screws down on the crank shant have worn down so there is not a good tight fit when the two parts are pushed together to engage the handle.

What is the best fit to get these two to fit and hold while cranking. Both the external price and the internal piece are worn and smoothed.

or is there a place to buy a new crank set up?

Thanks, Jim
 

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Happy July the 4th.

I have a 4 frame hand extractor that I bought from my neighbor for $70 two years ago. It is a nice one but he got the expensive electric extractor.

I did about 20 frames yesterday and the hand crank kept jumping out of gear. It took a long time to extract the frames.

Is there a easy fix? Looks like the handle lock and the corresponding piece that screws down on the crank shant have worn down so there is not a good tight fit when the two parts are pushed together to engage the handle.

What is the best fit to get these two to fit and hold while cranking. Both the external price and the internal piece are worn and smoothed.

or is there a place to buy a new crank set up?

Thanks, Jim
It sounds like it is a type of overrunning clutch mechanism. My simple extractor does not have that function and if you let go the handle or get out of time with it it will come around and clunk you. A bit of a trick to catch it on the fly.

Just guessing this is what it is; picture would help. It it is as I conjecture, you might be able to pin or lock out that function and still use it. Plastic gears or ratchet surfaces?
 

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I think that you can buy replacement gears from the manufacturer, bee supply houses, or e-bay. They may be nylon or cast iron. This my require some jerry-rigging.

Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
image3.jpeg image2.jpeg image1.jpeg image0.jpeg

Here are the pxs of the handle set up. It is a safety factor and I could drill or weld the handle to the piece that attaches to the rod. Cannot find a name on the extractor to see if it is the same as all the others but I doubt it.
Thank,s

Jim
 

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It appears to be a ratchet mechanism to prevent the momentum of the cage from driving the handle. Does it have to separate each time the cover is opened for frame change? If not could you perhaps lock out the slip function? I am thinking totally degrease, roughen with sandpaper and fill with J and B Weld or similar metal or glass filled epoxy compound.

Such pieces are often sintered metal and dont lend themselves to being welded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is a closer look at top where handle attaches

Any suggestions? Will try to clean up the edges to see if I can get rid of t he problem unless someone has a better suggestion.

There is no name on the extractor.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Jim, the drive handle mechanism and the gear train look remarkably similar to the extractors that Brushy Mountain used to sell. You could crank it up and let go of the handle and the cage would continue to spin while the handle would not.

Look at this website. The color is red and not green, but it appears to be the same extractor as you have.

https://www.jinlantrade.com/ebay/S-4XXSDYMJ0000001/honey-extractor-m120-3.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Frame-Ho...270560?hash=item3d9f2904a0:g:aisAAOSwN~VeaHsu
 

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Brushy used to sell SAF extractors which are now sold by Blue Sky.They sell replacement parts but this does not seem to match your part(and is out of stock anyway)

https://www.blueskybeesupply.com/side-transmission-for-compact-and-compact-deluxe-extractors/

Does not look like a Lega either
https://www.legaitaly.com/en/produc...cessories/drive-system-with-helical-gears.467

Unfortunately there are a lot of cheap chinese knockoffs being sold and parts for those dont exist.

So you could measure your shaft and see if parts from another manufacturer might fit or up grade to a quality extractor.
 

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Looking at the picture it is just a disconnect so that when you stop cranking the momentum of the cage will not keep rotating the handle. Mine is a top crank rather than side but does not have such a California Safety Feature on it. I see an indent on the shaft for a set screw to land in; A simple handle could be made or the slip joint in the old one filled with the J&B Weld. I would not drill the shaft for a pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have a commercial can of the Devcon plastic steel that I had for some gun smithing projects that would fix it but then there is the safety factor of a handle that could do some damage. I usually do my work alone.

It is cheap soft metal so I was thinking about taking some dental drills and try to square up the grab angles that have been rounded over and dogged out.

My welfare bees have not done much. I started with the two best hive I have had in 30 + years only to have one swarm the first week of March and the other get in to spray and half die. Hive came back with feeding and darn if they did not swarm a month later. Should have split but I want two hives where I live. Guess I should have split and gave the split away to a new bee keeper.

Both hives have come back and if anything the deeps are near honey bound with about 3 frames of pollen in one and 1/2 a frame in the other hive and had 5 frames of capped brood and 7 in the other with few eggs and larva. Guess I will have to feed some pollen sub. Of 40 med super frames I got 12 to ext but I also pulled some 8 deep frames of honey. I ended up with 5.5 gallons of pretty good honey.

Wonder if my old heavy dutty 1/2 inch drill motor would drive the extractor without taking my support hand off?

QUESTION: How many people pull the old dark honey from their deeps and leave the new honey? Pros? cons?
 

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QUESTION: How many people pull the old dark honey from their deeps and leave the new honey? Pros? cons?
not if you treat with chemicals, I have had some that the honey got so hard from not being eaten for years, I had to throw those away, they couldn't even rob them out
 

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If you do drive it with a drill motor you really do need the overrunning clutch. Dogged in solid if you lose power you then have the drill motor being driven around by the momentum. You have to back off gradually on the throttle if it is variable speed. Many really old ones are not variable. Got tangled up in one up on a ladder. Lucked out with only a sprained wrist.

I pulled off some really old hard honey by scraping almost to the bottom of the cells. The bees will clean out the remainder and rebuild the cells quite quickly. Not sure if it was worth the trouble.

Maybe a good occupation if the virus lockdown has you immobilized anyway.;)
 

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You would lose your free spinning feature if you did this: drill thru the handle and sleeve, prob 3/16 or 1/4 dia would be enough, and pin both together on either side (180 degrees) of the drive shaft. If you've a tap for 3/16 or 1/4, drill to the tap drill size and tap the inner sleeve in one sweep. The bolts will lock the handle and sleeve together and could also lodge against the central shaft. Use a couple of bolts or screws with lock nuts to hold the "pins" in place (like the original sleeve has). This way the two parts always can be disassembled if necessary.

On the other hand, JB Weld is a quick solid fix.

The down side of both the tap-and-pin or JB is that you have a spinning extractor handle that could do a number on you if ever you wandered into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Having plenty of dental tools to work with I recut and squared the notches and one side worked and the other was too worn. When the spring broke trying to put the handle back together I went with the Devcon plastic steel and will just have to turn the handle with care because with the soft metal it would not last long with the existing wear though I use it only 2-3 times a year. It took an extra hour to do just 20 frames with the handle popping out of gear all the time just when you started to crank.

I will look again when we can get our great Chinese products back in stock. ( I am more worried about fishing gear in stock) ;)
 
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