Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner
1 - 4 of 21 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Give them a frame of open brood/eggs every week if you can until you either have a laying queen or it gets too late in the season. I had a nuc last year where the new queen started laying at the first of September and it built up fine and made it through the winter.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Not saying if you should or should not treat - that's your call - but they all have mites. You just found them today.

If you were of a mind to treat though it's generally best to do so when there's as little as possible capped brood.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
They all have mites???? Really???? So I'll never get rid of them? If I will not get rid of them then why treat?
Too many mites will destroy a colony. Some bees apparently have an inherent natural ability to cope with varroa.

Populations of all creatures live side by side with parasites and disease organisms, and cope with them through resistance and/or hygiene.

If you have a dog it probably has ticks and fleas sometimes. Most of the time the dog can deal, but if it becomes too infested with parasites it could be weakened to the point that it's health or life is at risk. Most people get their dog a flea collar or something during the summer peak of the flea and tick season. Think of varroa as bee ticks.

Wild dogs, wolves, coyotes, etc that can't deal with fleas and ticks die - the ones that don't are resistant enough to do without a flea collar. They still have fleas though.

People who don't treat for varroa are selecting for the same kind of natural resistance.

However, if your bees are regular non-resistant commercially produced stock, and you just don't treat in any way most of them will probably die. So you are well advised to educate yourself before just quitting cold turkey.
 
1 - 4 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top