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Discussion Starter #1
I had noticed beetles almost immediately after installing my package 20 days ago. I assume they came with it. Every time I checked it, I killed all that I saw. Today I checked it and saw beetle larvae on the bottom board as well as comb damage on a couple of the frames. I have a screened bottom board. I removed the wood bottom so that I just have the screen. Will that help? What about the damage. Should I scape that part off the frame or just remove the entire frame. They have an assortment of brood and capped honey with damage limited to at most a quarter of the comb in the center. I would hate to have to destroy all of their work. Also what is the best beetle trap. I am thinking about ordering a 'hand' trap to put on a foundationless frame. Would one per super be enough or should I use more. I tried a beetle eater trap but it didn't do much. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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There are several designs that are filled with oil and give the SHB a place to run from the bees and drown. I tried most of them and now use an oil tray under the screened bottom board. You can buy those from the suppliers too or take a trip to the grocery and buy a $2 aluminum cookie sheet. Before you let your hive die Checkmite + works for Varroa and small hive beetles. The bees will abandon the hive when it gets infested. It will leave an oily looking mess with damaged combs as you describe.
 

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If its gotten to the point the SHB larva are ruining drawn comb its probably too late to resolve. Only hope is what AB advised....checkmite +. Get it on quick and you might salvage the colony but like he said when they start damaging comb the bees will abscond leaving behind a stinking ugly oily mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't think it has gotten that bad yet. I just checked it again and I did not see any larvae in the comb. It just looked like there were places that were indented like it had been removed. I noticed a few beetles that I plucked out with a tweezers, for what good that did. The larvae that I saw were on the corex IPM board which I removed exposing just the screen.
 

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TJ, if you have any extra room in that hive, condense them down and do not give them extra room unless they need it. By keeping that hive strong and compacted, they can and will handle the SHB.....this is from my observation and I am about 1.5 hrs from you. In my instance, I have a board installed on my new Nucs that keep the bees out of the extra space. As they get stronger, I move the board and add a frame....It works for me.....also google Fatbee/man on youtube and find his SHB traps. Simple and easy...
 

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Every crook & cranny that the bees can't get to harbours SHB - so think like a bee and look around inside your home - think weather-proofing for an example. How do you feed?

I'm with devdog - it's a fine line between not enough space & too much. You're gonna have SHB, no matter what you do - you just don't want a bunch of them.

I purchased a bottom oil trap over #6 screen last year and it was the bomb, but the guy is out of business & trying to find #6 mesh will kill you in price & shipping ($95+) for enough for a few SBB's. I wouldn't mess with the in-hive models, unless you can stand the constant inside-the-hive maintenance & mess.

The ones I've seen advertised run #8, but I think that is too small (fine for varroa).

Checkmite II kicks them - but you have to be careful & only use it between 50 & 80 degrees (remember last Sunday? close to 85, then we drop into the very low 40's)
 

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Please don't use chemicals. Guys if you are going to recommend chemicals then note the disclaimer of the chemical and what the downside is.
 

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check out this link that's running currently on another thread:

http://www.greenbeehives.com

I'm pretty sure kelly runs #8 & I know for sure that freeman does.

Guys if you are going to recommend chemicals then note the disclaimer of the chemical and what the downside is
Should I have included the entire MSDS sheet in the post?

How about "this product has worked well for me, but like anything else - whether a product or a procedure, I strongly recommend you perform due-dilligence and do thorough research to determine it's effacacy as it applies to your particular situation".

I'm going to save that as a word file so I can cut & paste it in all my posts.
 

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Trust me the bettles can go through #8 wire I smashed 4 yesterday that the beesin my observation hive had chased through the 8 wire that covers the feeder hole.
 

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check out this link that's running currently on another thread:

http://www.greenbeehives.com

I'm pretty sure kelly runs #8 & I know for sure that freeman does.



Should I have included the entire MSDS sheet in the post?

How about "this product has worked well for me, but like anything else - whether a product or a procedure, I strongly recommend you perform due-dilligence and do thorough research to determine it's effacacy as it applies to your particular situation".

I'm going to save that as a word file so I can cut & paste it in all my posts.

FWIW I have 3 freeman traps and they are catching quite a number of beetles.
 

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My package is above #6, my nuc is above #8 within 3 feet of each other and both hives are configured exactly the same (sans screen size) on drawn foundation. I'll post results later in June and throughout the season once I feel they have caught up with each other.

Don't cry for my package if you think it is weaker - they're comb-buildin/, pollen-gathering/syrup-eating maniacs with every comb in the hive deep heavily occupied (go queenie, go).

Here in SHB heaven we're gonna do a side-by-side comparison.

By the way, I already have varroa (& SHB) - not to the extent I'm gonna do anything until after the first brood hatch, so prepare yourself according to your treatment/prevention methods.

Optimism reigns, failure is not an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everybody for all the advice. I had hoped to go a little longer than 3 weeks into my beekeeping career before resorting to chemicals, so I think I am going to order some traps to start with. But, being in the deep south, it may turn out that chems are the only option. We'll see.
 
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