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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok here it is. I made up 4 nucs . I puchased queens for each on. 3 of the 4 were successful. The 4th nuc the bees covered the QC. I had to swip them off and to my surprise the queen was dead. So bought another queen ghis time a Italian. I just received her friday. I gave her water. The queen was very active inside the cage. I had good hopes i just went in to check big ok ball of bees around QC . Shook ghem off and saw queen was dead. But this time most of candy plug was gone. I really cant afford to buy another queen so i merged the 2 smallest nucs together. I caught and recaged the queen put marshmellow in the hole . And i just added the frames then i put the queen on the top bars and they went right to her and after a couple minutes i didnt see her any more. I plan on checking on her every day. I have never had a hard time requeening. The bees came from a saskatraz hive. I tried a saskatraz wueen first then Italian. Any ideas?
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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From personal experience, sometimes that is the way it goes. I have a nuc that not only failed to raise its own queen from frames of brood, it has killed two virgin queens I installed also. Tired of wasting time and resources on them and sure do not want to combine them with a good hive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How do you think they are killing the inside a cage? Im very curious. I thought the cage was to protect her untl shes accepted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok. I kinda thought that . Just didnt want to sound crazy or just way out there. Ive heard of honey bees doing that to the Japanese wasp. They cant fight them thier to big. But the learned to ball them and that cooks them. Wow. I will check today when i get home.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Balling, cooks her to death
That was my thought too, but really hard to say for sure. All she had to do was crawl on the screen and get stung through it a few times.
 

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Normally we should assume there is a queen or virgin or queen cell already in the hive, and that is why a hive is rejecting a purchased queen. I'm recommending to anyone who wants to buy a queen from me, that they take a frame with young brood/eggs (or buy one from me) and see the bees make a queen cell before installing a queen.

But.... I have had a nuc which had a virgin that failed to return. I know there wasn't other brood in there - it's a nuc, you can easily see each frame. Well, this nuc kept eating queens (I put in 3 frames with queen from a 3 frame mating nuc).

At first, I thought it was the stress of installing - triggered something. I suppose that's possible - some hives will ball and kill a queen when the hive experiences stress. Though swapping 3 frames with stores for 3 frames with a queen and brood - how is that stressful?!?!?

But I have another theory now - I think that hive was on its way to becoming laying worker, without showing the signs yet. So, after they ate the 3rd queen, I put in a frame of brood until they made queen cells. And they did not cooperate with the first frame of brood.

I've changed how I make up mating nucs now. I add open brood now - just a little - to "reset the clock" for those bees to give me time before they start going "invisible laying worker". And if I don't see eggs at the 2 weeks post mating point, I am just putting in open brood, instead of a queen cell - to reset the dang clock!

So, to the OP - combining the killer hive with a queenright one should be fine. I see you're in Ill, and WINTER is coming, so probably better to do that than to give them a frame of open brood and make them work for it.

Just make sure that you add 1-2 frames from the "killer hive" to a strong 5 frame nuc - so your killer bees are not going to outnumber/overpower your good girls.
 

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Not that unusual to have a colony reject a queen, it happens. A bit odd if all nucs were made from the same colony and only 1 rejected a queen. The other thing to remember is that a purchased queen is no longer a laying queen, most times a queenless colony will still accept her, but sometimes they wont. using a push in cage over ripe sealed brood and honey/pollen is probably the safest way. The emerging brood will accept her and she will start laying again making her more attractive to the colony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I actually did pull a frame out and use a push in cage..i felt like she would have more of a chance. They cant cook her. I made a big pushin cage 2 yrs ago. My push in cage is like 4x6 so its on the big side. I did put it on some capped brood. So i hope this is it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As of monday nite the queen was in a push in cage. I just pulled her out the bees seemed calm. To her as well. So i took off the cage and she started to mingle with the others. So it looks like the push in cage was the way to go.
 
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