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Doing a trap out on a house wall. We will go after the comb once we get almost all the bees out of the wall (or that is the plan). Owners don't want the house full of bees and don't want to chance it, so either get the bees first or they get sprayed. Will be helping with comb removal (it is family deal) so just not trapping them out here. Get to help with it all.:rolleyes:

I have done a few trap outs, never got the queen, but have pulled a majority of the bees in two instances. But I have had some issues being as successful as I hoped in both cases.

When you place the comb in the trap and trying to draw out nurse bees and maybe the queen with comb of larvae and eggs, people place a funnel to let them out the cavity and not back into the original hive. I have tried this but had bees going in and out of the funnel.

What is the best funnel design?

Funnel opening?

Does it need smooth edges or would a fringe of wires help?

Anything as far as suggestions would be nice and so would pictures.

I will try to post a picture of trap out configuration tomorrow.

Thanks
 

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I had success with a funnel that was about 6 or 7 inches long with an opening that was the diameter of a regular pencil. I would imagine that a longer funnel would work well, but I would leave the opening the same size.
 

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the one on Mr. Hogans plans looks rather small, it comes off the bottom of the transition and the end of the transition capped off when employing the funnel if I am not mistaken. I'm sure he would be happy to tell you what size he uses. PM him. G
 

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I've used an opening about the size of a pencil but it was aluminum screen wire and I fringed the opening so it was flexible. Drones could get out but not get back in. The funnel was about 9" long. Mr Hogan's trap out method usually gets the queen, which I haven't been able to do (yet) in two attempts. That was before I got his info on trap outs. I haven't done one since then.
 

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I used an oil funnel from the automotive department at Wal Mart. They are gray and around $3. The opening is just right. I cut it to length and mounted it to a short piece of pvc so I can add and remove it easy from the trap by inserting it into a coupler mounted on trap.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I used an oil funnel from the automotive department at Wal Mart. They are gray and around $3. The opening is just right. I cut it to length and mounted it to a short piece of pvc so I can add and remove it easy from the trap by inserting it into a coupler mounted on trap.
That might be the ticket because I am using PCV pipe as my connector tube between the hive body and the wall.

Thanks everyone.

PS. - Not many bees using the hive body with one frame of honey/larvae/pupae added. Will add the funnel later this week. But darn these ladies are more aggressive than I like. Whatever I get will be getting new queen genetics.
 

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speaking of cone, since the first papers ont this subject
(bulletin 138 Agricultural Experiment Station, University of Missouri--Columbia en 1915
but there is a better description in 1918 in Farmers' Bulletin, Num 961 :TRANSFERRING BEES TO MODERN HIVES by E. L. SECHRIST Apicultural Assistant)

it should be ~8 inches long.
when the bees escape from the wall by the "cone" they are trapped out because they are lured by the hive scent which are stronger at the base of the cone, and not so much because of the cone shape or the dimension of the top hole

The only chance to get the queen is to place the cone top just upward of the hive entrance board, so she can fall on it at the end.

may I suggest this board?
sized for a Warré but should work on Langstroth as well
Or this one for horizontal use


In the board design they always can escape by the mesh path which acts like a cone. but with the key/drawer the are allowed , or not, to pass trough the Hive,
and you 'll get the queen with some key manoeuvres.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
DocBB - thanks, the information on funnel size/length, that sure makes sense. Could not open the last two links.
 
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